Back in Iraq

| 66 Comments | 11 TrackBacks

DUHOK, Iraqi Kurdistan -- Well, that last post was quite a cliff-hanger, wasn't it? However, after two nights and a day of walking -- well, walking, marching, climbing, scrambling -- from Turkey to Iraq, I can confirm that I'm safe and well in Duhok at the Jiyan Palace Hotel. The crossing was a Bataan death march. Luckily we survived. I'm exhausted. It's 4 p.m. here in Iraq, and I need to sleep for a while. Sorry for no details on this one, but I'm just absolutely knackered.

At least I'm alive. Now, I can get to work.

11 TrackBacks

TrackBack URL: http://www.back-to-iraq.com/blog-mt/mt-tb.cgi/2556

Back to Iraq 2.0 Christopher Allbritton has made it across the border and is now in Duhok. Look for further Read More

Back to Iraq 2.0: Back in Iraq Christopher Allbritton, an independent reporter has just crossed the border into Iraq to... Read More

Christopher Albritton il giornalista indipendente di cui ho già parlato ce l'ha fatta. Dopo una marcia estenuante (e pericolosa) è riuscito ad attraversare clandestinamente la frontiera fra la Turchia e l'Iraq, e ora si trova in Kurdistan, a Duhok. È... Read More

He's back from tendentious on April 4, 2003 12:26 PM

Christopher made it back to Iraq!... Read More

Christopher Allbritton has crossed the border into northern Iraq. He is an independent journalist, and former AP and New York Daily News reporter, on his way to northern Iraq to write reports for his weblog Back to Iraq.... Read More

Back to Iraq 2.0 is an excellent blog of Christopher Allbritton, an independent journalist covering the war in Iraq. It's Read More

Back in Iraq from randomWalks on April 4, 2003 1:06 PM

At least I’m alive. Now, I can get to work. Chris is back in Iraq. Read More

Back in Iraq from Rabblerabbit's Warren on April 4, 2003 4:51 PM

Just a quick note. Back to Iraq's Chris Allbritton has crossed over into Iraq. My prayers go with him and Read More

Christopher is back in Iraq. Read More

Chris Albritton ha mandato il reportage sulla sua "Lunga Marcia" per passare dalla Turchia in Iraq. Non perdetevelo: è meglio di Indiana Jones.... Read More

Anche se avete bisogno del dizionario, vale la pena di leggerlo. Chris Albritton ha mandato il reportage sulla sua "Lunga Marcia" per passare dalla Turchia in Iraq.... Read More

66 Comments

So glad to hear from you. It’s been a nervous 24 hours. Glad to hear you’re OK. Get some rest and stay on your toes.

http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/middleeastandasia/iraqwallfull2003.jpg

A great map for us to keep track of him. That is sure some walk. The map has the town spelled with an i?

Christopher - Your use of sophmoric hyperbole like “Bataan death march” deeply concerns me as one of your readers. I would venture to say that your journey to Duhok bore no resemblence to Bataan. I’m sure your adrenaline is pumping and you’re energized to be in Iraq, but I worry about your writing when you are truly under fire. Knackered or not I’m expecting better things from you.

Can’t wait for the details. Good luck!

David - give the guy a break. How often have you done something of this undertaking? I challenge you to write something erudite when you’ve been sleep deprived and physically exhausted.

Yes, I agree: the Bataan metaphor was in poor taste.

Everything’s under the microscope now — knackered or no. I understand, too, that you’re going to encounter a lot of weirdness. But if you must get “creative” with the weirdness, go the Chatwin route and understate it.

Impressive Chris. I must admit that when I first saw your site, I was a bit skeptical of the whole thing. You’ve won me over. I look eagerly forward to reading further. Keep up the good work, and keep your head down.

What the heck is the Bataan Death March, and why is it not OK to talk about it? I know I should probably know this, but I don’t.

Yeah, saying “that was a Bataan Death March” is sort of funny in a context where such things are remote and the hyperbole is obvious.

But in this context, when we are all thinking about war and cruelty, it isn’t funny at all.

Those who don’t know about the terrible Bataan Death March inflicted by the Japanese on American and British POWs should break out a history book or do a simple Internet search on the topic.

Good link on Bataan from PBS:

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/macarthur/sfeature/bataan_capture.html

I see what folks are talking about. Everybody knows what Christopher meant — he’s tired, the walk was tough, things were touchy — but the metaphor ought not (IMHO) be wielded loosy-goosy.

Ditto Dan Sheetz’ comments. Plus, whatever the Bataan Death March was or was not, who of us can second guess what Chris’ undertaking felt like or really was like? - since we are all a very long way removed from his experience, both in physical distance and in psyche. This entire war is “in poor taste” and it is Chris’ prerogative to compare his experiences to whatever he sees fit. Regardless of one’s expectations of his reporting, Chris IS the one on the frontline, and it’s his story. He must tell it as he sees it. I want to hear his story, as he tells it, which is why I read this ‘blog regularly; I personally derive no benefit from armchair critiques of Chris’ use of the language. If you want to argue credibly whether or not Chris is accurately detailing his experience, you need to haul arse up out of the La-Z-Boy, get on over there and do it yourself. Until you do that you lack standing to criticize. Now go to your rooms and contemplate your behaviour and you can come out when you’re ready to join the group (as my mom used to say.)

Christopher -

So glad to hear the good news that you are safe. I just discovered your website and am impressed with the level of resources that you cite, and am especially thankful for the list of related links. As the wife of a Marine half a world away, I rely on the media a lot for news and information, and have become completely frustrated with nearly all of it, as you can imagine. Though I disagree quite frequently with your most vehement points (just as I frequently dismiss the US government’s “official word”, or that of the Iraqi government, or the speculations of media “experts” - the list goes on…), I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your attention to framing this as a first hand report, and inspiring all of us to do our homework and be our own journalists.

As for the “Bataan death march” comment - I hope you will leave the more colorful references to less credible reporters. May none of us ever know how any of our best efforts compare to such a thing.

PS - your Mom rocks!

Glad to hear you are okay. I will be looking forward to reading your stories…

Iraqis cheer as US seizes airport

If you want to argue credibly whether or not Chris is accurately detailing his experience, you need to haul arse up out of the La-Z-Boy, get on over there and do it yourself.

Why does everybody assume that if we criticize Christopher, we’re sitting at home doing nothing?

I respect what Christopher is doing, wish him all the best, and I agree with those folks who have pointed out the inappropriateness of the metaphor. Moreover, I can assure those folks that there are other people doing equally difficult, equally harrowing things — in the United States, in Iraq, and elsewhere — and that while, yes, Christopher is taking an enormous risk doing what he’s doing, and that while, yes yes, we appreciate Christopher doing what he’s doing, and that while, yes yes yes, we understand that we’re not in Christopher’s shoes — his risk does not obviate the need for careful, considered, respectful reporting — nor does it mean that those of us critical of Christopher’s reporting aren’t ourselves taking risks — artistic, journalistic, or otherwise.

Get a grip, folks. Just because we make a critical comment doesn’t mean we’re sitting in a recliner and chewing our way through bags of potato chips.

I must be odd-chick out. I thought the Bataan metaphor was great. Mygod what an ordeal he went through, risking his life to do this and I’m a mom, too, and was very happy to see she told people to lighten up. I doubt I would be as civil. I can’t believe some people come here and say negative things.

Ok, roll your eyes, because this is so cliched, but if you can’t say something nice about somebody, don’t say anything at all.

I can relax now knowing you made it, Chris. Now to wait for the next installment.

I doubt I would be as civil. I can’t believe some people come here and say negative things.

It’s not a personal attack. It’s a rhetorical attack. We’re urging Christopher to be more precise with language.

That’s it. That’s all.

I’d expect the same from any writer writing about the siutation.

So mother and fathers, relax.

Christopher: keep writing!

Good luck Chris! Be Safe!

Oh god, the PC Police are here. This guy just risked his life to enter a country at war, and all the 12 year olds sitting at home behind their daddies keyboard are throwing hissy fits over his choice of words.

Back to drpepper’s post of a great map and asking why the city name is spelled with an i.

Spelling is relative. Written words often are representations of the underlying verbal phonemes of the native speakers. The Kurds have prefered to use Arabic, Persian or Turkish script for their literary works. In Turkey Kurdish is written with the Latin alphabet and in parts of the former Soviet Union it is written with the Cyrillic alphabet. Then spelling can be warped by historical convolutions. Consider the British cartographer who spelled it the way his ear heard it.

We’re lucky it’s only a little shift from Duhok to Dihok.

You’d better write something fast dude… people are goin’ crazy over a words… heck I don’t even know what ‘Bataan’ is.

They should check out CNN if they want bad reporting… You can maby even get some “Aint no“‘s there.

ciao… looking forward to whats goin’ on.

Victims of the Bataan were not volunteers. They were starved, sick, and injured with no water or food, many were barefoot. They did not have satellite phones or laptop computers. I won’t criticize Chris for hyperbole in the throes of exhaustion (certainly not in front of his mom) though the comment did make me wince. But, someone who casually says “whatever the Bataan Death March was or was not” shows an appalling lack of gratitude for their freedom bought by my father and hundreds of thousands of others in World War II.

I donated to Chris so I could read the unfettered voice of journalism. A “mainstream” journalist would be profusely apologizing for the Bataan remark right now, or would never have gotten in past their editor in the first place. So, Chris is giving me what I wanted and I won’t find fault with him. But, to read that there are people so casual about their freedom that they would not even know the price that was paid to secure it sickens me.

Rhenda

Oh god, the PC Police are here. This guy just risked his life to enter a country at war, and all the 12 year olds sitting at home behind their daddies keyboard are throwing hissy fits over his choice of words.

For chrissake. The guy’s a journalist. Either he cares about words — or he’s in the wrong business.

Again: why does everybody assume that if we criticize, we’re just sitting at home? I’m a writer, too, and you better damn well believe that when I go astray with my writing, I hear about it. I’m not sure why Christopher should be above the fray — especially when we’re dealing with “blogs” and “blogging” and a shakey new world of internet gratification.

Besides, he’s solicited donations from people to complete these tasks. He reached out to the community in order to get ‘back to Iraq.’ I believe the community therefore has the responsibility to raise their voice if they think something inappropriate. Please don’t expect us to sit back mute and say nothing. You do understand you’re reading a blog, right?

And to those of you admitting that you don’t know what Bataan is — you should get yourself to google or a library and read up on it. To admit ignorance of something like Bataan is shameful.

Oh god, the PC Police are here. This guy just risked his life to enter a country at war, and all the 12 year olds sitting at home behind their daddies keyboard are throwing hissy fits over his choice of words.

For chrissake. The guy’s a journalist. Either he cares about words — or he’s in the wrong business.

Again: why does everybody assume that if we criticize, we’re just sitting at home? I’m a writer, too, and you better damn well believe that when I go astray with my writing, I hear about it. I’m not sure why Christopher should be above the fray — especially when we’re dealing with “blogs” and “blogging” and a shakey new world of internet gratification.

Besides, he’s solicited donations from people to complete these tasks. He reached out to the community in order to get ‘back to Iraq.’ I believe the community therefore has the responsibility to raise their voice if they think something inappropriate. Please don’t expect us to sit back mute and say nothing. You do understand you’re reading a blog, right?

And to those of you admitting that you don’t know what Bataan is — you should get yourself to google or a library and read up on it. To admit ignorance of something like Bataan is shameful.

Oh god, the PC Police are here. This guy just risked his life to enter a country at war, and all the 12 year olds sitting at home behind their daddies keyboard are throwing hissy fits over his choice of words.

For chrissake. The guy’s a journalist. Either he cares about words — or he’s in the wrong business.

Again: why does everybody assume that if we criticize, we’re just sitting at home? I’m a writer, too, and you better damn well believe that when I go astray with my writing, I hear about it. I’m not sure why Christopher should be above the fray — especially when we’re dealing with “blogs” and “blogging” and a shakey new world of internet gratification.

Besides, he’s solicited donations from people to complete these tasks. He reached out to the community in order to get ‘back to Iraq.’ I believe the community therefore has the responsibility to raise their voice if they think something inappropriate. Please don’t expect us to sit back mute and say nothing. You do understand you’re reading a blog, right?

And to those of you admitting that you don’t know what Bataan is — you should get yourself to google or a library and read up on it. To admit ignorance of something like Bataan is shameful.

Apologies for the multiple posts.

This shakey world of internet gratification didn’t gratify my internet impulses instantly, and I accidentally hit the submit button multiple times.

Such is technology.

Thomas Pynchon not long ago in the New York Times Book Review wondered if it’s okay to be a Luddite?

These days, I wonder.

Again, my apologies.

I agree with those who are sympathetically cautioning Chris to be more cautious with the sloppy hyperbole. After all, that’s what you get when you blog — the freedom to go unedited, and the feedback from the audience. Think of us as a big collaborative editor. As others have pointed out, journalism is about crisp, accurate language, and while I applaud Chris’ hard work, I also think it’s totally appropriate for people to speak up when they see flippancy or vagueness in his word choices. Avoid cliche; be humble; give details. That said, stay safe, Chris!

Great map, drpepper!

Please please please don’t do anything I wouldn’t do. I’ll pray for your safe return.

Well I have read the book “The Long Walk”… and maby ‘Bataan Death March’ is something like that. If so, then I understand exactly what he means by such a extreme comparison.

I mean if someone said that their day at work was like being part of a siberian chain gang I would get the point and move on. Anyways, I’m not a jounalist and don’t know the seriousness of such uses of language. Sorry… I agree with Scorpia though… Stay safe!

Chris,

Good luck to you! Everyone in my office is reading your site..keep up the great work!

u

Your analogy of the Bataan death march is naive, inapropriate and in poor taste. My Grandfather was one of many thousands of Commonwealth POW’s and civilians who died under the murderous command of the Japanese on this nightmare journey. They unlike you did not have the luxury of ending up in a hotel - their final resting place was an unmarked grave!

Your analogy of the Bataan death march is naive, inapropriate and in poor taste. My Grandfather was one of many thousands of Commonwealth POW’s and civilians who died under the murderous command of the Japanese on this nightmare journey. They unlike you did not have the luxury of ending up in a hotel - their final resting place was an unmarked grave!

Thank God you are well.

Dear Chris, the Jiyan Hotel is the best Hotel in Kurdistan. I hope you got a room with great view over the mountins and the Duhok city.

Cristopher:

Keep going!!! You are doing a great job!!!

San Jose, Costa Rica

To those of you beating the Bataan horse…GET A LIFE! If somebody’s hyperbole gets under your skin because of something your dear old gramps went through 60 years ago then I’ve got a solution for you…DON’T READ IT!!!

It’s a BLOG for Chrissakes! You don’t get to dictate, select or even criticize the content. What you do get to decide is whether or not to stay….or walk. If your delicate sensibilities are offended, use your mouse and go visit MSNBC or FoxNews. Why anyone would waste their precious time reading/viewing/listening to something they don’t like is beyond me. Unless, of course, they’re so miserable that they simply derive pleasure in the complaining.

Congrats, Chris. And, personally, I thoroughly enjoy your style (which is why I continue to visit your site each day).

Christopher,

Will you be walking to Baghdad too? Just know that Saddam International Airport is experiencing some flight delays!

You don’t get to dictate, select or even criticize the content.

Thanks, Uncle Saddam.

some nice comments @ www3.warblogging.com (shift + click on my alias to go to the site) on your “hero” who should just stick to the facts (like Duhok is 30 miles from the boarder and far away from Baghdad)

Pinky Tuscadero writes:

“Thanks Uncle Saddam.”

Broaaaaaaaaaaad strokes, now.

So where’s your diary?

For those of you that can’t see what’s going on, there is one, or maybe there are two, right wing disrupters trying to cause trouble here using several different usernames. Just ignore them.

They are pissed off that they are sitting in their lazy boy chairs, drooling over pictures of Bush and Rumsfield, watching the war, while other people are actually doing something with their lives.

Ignore the right wing disrupter(s), no matter how many different fake names they use to agree with themselves.

Christopher:

Great to hear you made it. Funny your at the Jiyan Palace Hotel in Duhok! I’ve stayed there before. It’s a great hotel if you don’t mind the odor of goat feces.

There’s a guy there named Ali - at the concierge desk. He’ll help you make some connections to Baghdad. In fact, when you talk to him ask him if he found a set of Ben was and a jar of K-Y in room 306 about 6 months ago. He can ship it when he gets a chance. He has my address.

I’ll be checking in.

Jasper

Congradulations! Tonight, I will raise a glass to you, and to the prospect of truly independent journalism—something we need now more than ever.

[Off topic post deleted. This more properly belongs in the Discussion forums.]

What, in the bloody hell, is this man blathering on about in such a ridiculously asinine fashion?

bataan, sorry, ott, mr hemmingway wannabe would be well versed to read a little Orwell viz spanish civil war, bye bye bti bookmark

I’m not even mildly “right wing.” And if we don’t have the right to comment or criticize, what the heck is the comment button for? Not everyone who disagrees with you is some scheming ideological villain. Some of us are just writers who are rooting for Chris, but also have comments on what we’re reading.

And some of us are just middle aged white feminist moms who love our veterans, dispise Mr. Bush, defend free speech, oppose the death penalty, love Eminem, wave the flag and oppose abortion. Now put me in a category. Wait a minute…maybe I am several people.

Oh, dangit I misplet despize. I’m new at this blogging, does spelling count?

Hi, sorry if this isn’t totally about B2I but does anyone know anything about Salam Pax of dear_raed? No posts since March 24th. Anyone?? Hoping it’s just due to communications outage in Baghdad. Well I say ‘just’. You know what I mean.

I’m hoping that we haven’t heard anything from Salam just because his internet access has been knocked out because of the bombing. I really hope it’s not some other reason.

I’m so glad to see you made it OK and I of course can’t wait for you commentary. I’m slightly nervous about Salem though… I hope it’s just his internet connection.

Go Scorpia.

What this country, this war and this reality needs is more dialogue, more critique, more questioning, more precision and more involvement. So sometimes a dead horse must be thwapped a few times more. At least then a climate of participation is being fostered.

I guess he could have said the walk was “hell.” Would that have been in better taste? If half of you had to get off your couch to walk to the store you would be using worse desciptions than “Batan Death March.” Try walking across a desert between two countries in the middle of a war. Brave thing.

Obviously the Bataan death march reference was, as many have pointed out, a methaphor, a shortcut. Chris was saying that he was pooped! What, you’re offended that he didn’t really experience a forced march? Get that stick out of your ass and let the man use creative language to communicate. Good hunting, Chris. Ignore the word police.

Credentials? My grandfather survived both marches.

None of the news agencies are saying anything about what is happening in Northern Iraq… when will we see some REPORTING here ?!?!?!?!?!?

Easy Paul. Take a chill pill. He just got there and he said he needed some rest.

Remember one of Chris’ posts talked about how out of touch he was being on the road.

Sit back and relax, take advantage of that lazy-boy, this is going to get good.

You’re correct about one thing, getting news about the “northern front” is like pulling a tooth, opps that’s a trite sophomoric metaphore.

Above all stay safe Chris.

Hurray! yes, quite a cliff hanger there, forward on.

Ditto, ditto and ditto the lazyboys, chill pills, sophomoric critics, etc. Everyone’s ancestors have survived unspeakable suffering and most of us have recovered, but Iraq is bleeding NOW. We pooled our buxx, we post our good wishes and godsends, and daily read this ‘blog because Chris can and will do the trip; I insist that if anyone thinks they can do it better, then jolly well go do it. He has paid for the right to use any terminology the way he wants. He’s not fed his daily approved politico-speak lines. Safe-on-ya, “C”, and write because you can. (‘Nite, C-mom, you’re fabulous.)

heya chris — glad to hear you arrived in iraq reasonably safely; albeit apparently with plenty of adrenaline still in your system.

it’s 1:00 pm iraq time. the airport is allegedly in the hands of US forces, and they’re also supposedly somewhere near the centre of baghdad but one couldn’t imagine that from the vantage point i have; jet aircraft are flying over quite often now (but they are not always followed by loud explosions), there is a lot of smoke in the sky, drifting in from the southeast, and police/fire/ambulance sirens can be heard now and again. and yet, traffic goes on as usual, people are chatting in arabic in the background, it looks, except for the smoke, like a completely normal day in the city. i am watching the feed from one of the cameras at the palestine hotel, which are no longer allowed to point anywhere but towards that large statue of saddam on (what i think is) abatash ramadan square. the whole thing is totally surreal.

do be safe.

the first truly post post-modern war….the community of blog comments intuitively and randomly bubbling..as one wireless laptopper is physically walking through the landscape of sanctioned murder…..

Chris:

You’re doing great. Steady as she goes.

[Off topic comment deleted]

Isn’t the title “Back In Iraq 2.0” redundant? Enlighten me, someone.

Just curious, I see some weird layout when loading this blog using Mac OSX. Maybe it is only my problem.

About me


Hi there! Thanks for stopping in. I'm Christopher Allbritton, former AP and New York Daily News reporter. In 2002, I went stumbling around Iraqi Kurdistan, the northern part of Iraq outside Saddam's direct control, looking for stories. (Some might call it "looking for trouble.") In March 2003, I made it back in time for the war, becoming the Web's first fully reader-funded journalist-blogger. With the support of thousands of readers, we raised almost $15,000. You can read my dispatches here. It was one of the moments in journalism when everything worked. It was a grand -- and successful -- experiment in independent journalism. In 2004, I moved to Iraq, where I would spend the next two years. It was a raucous, scary and exciting place with a lot of news going on. But I've since moved on to Beirut and the wider region. I now report for a variety of outlets.

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