TEN MILES FROM THE IRAQI BORDER -- J. and I are sitting in the middle of mountain valley, protected from surveillance by scrub and rocky outcroppings. Overhead the roar and rumble of bombers echoes against the mountain walls. Every now and then, we can hear the dull thuds of exploded ordinance -- over Mosul? -- as the sounds of the blasts roll through the valleys and off the sheer faces surrounding us. It is overcast, which is lucky. Tonight, we will ford one of the Tigris' tributaries and then walk two to three hours on foot -- with a guide -- into Iraq.
Our guide is of indeterminate age, with teeth as exposed and raw as the crags of the mountains around us. In an hour, he will take us into the village below us and then across the river into Iraq. He is a good Muslim, with the heels of his shoes folded down so he can slip them on and off easily when he enters and leaves the mosque. He is looking at me as I write this, not quite knowing what to make of me. Every now and then, he makes a phone call on his Siemens cell phone. How he gets coverage out here in the middle of nowhere, I have no idea, and J. jokes that he's on the smuggler's phone plan, with super extended range.
The guide, whose name I don't know and never will know, is part of a Kurdish network that has made a cottage industry of smuggling people across the border. After meeting up with N. and U. in Diyarbakir, who said they could hook us up, we spent three days in negotiations to get us across. It has cost J. and me $3,000 each, which N. is holding for us. If anything goes wrong, and we don't check in, N. has said he will call in the cavalry in the form of the jandamra, which would be an ironic rescue, considering the three grand went a long way toward avoiding those jandarma.
The cost is high, but we're in a hurry. Syria has closed its borders -- except for night vision goggles and Arab fighters entering Iraq with the fevered wish to blow themselves up, taking a few Americans with them. Iran has been closed for some time. Getting a visa is impossible, I've been told. So we have decided to take the high-cost, medium-risk route across Turkey's heavily fortified border with Iraq. We are mad.
If we are caught, it will be bad, but not disastrous. Turkey will throw us out of the country after holding us in a shitty jail cell for a night or two. And I'll be banned from working in Turkey forever. However, compared to the stunt pulled by Philip Robertson, a Salon.com writer, who paddled across the Tigris under the cover of night after hiding out from Syria's secret police, this scheme is the model of sanity.
We have arrived at this point through a circuitous three days. We left Diyarbakir Monday in the company of N. and U., our driver. We set out after we got our Diyarbakir district press pass, and headed for Mardin. Our plan was to head to Cizre, near the Iraqi border, stay a couple of nights, meet up with our coyotes -- the smugglers -- and zip across the border. It's been a bumpy ride.
At the first jandarma checkpoint, the guards ask us where we are going, what we are doing, who are we? Mardin!, we reply, smiling and goofing. The jandarma major does neither.
"Why are you going to Mardin?" he asked.
"To see the church," I cheerfully lied.
He finally lets us through and we hit Mardin, where we stop for lunch. And the church. It turns out that we're being followed by the gitem, members of the network of spies and village guards the jandarma set up around southeastern Turkey during its 1984-1998 war with the PKK. The gitem get money and weapons from the Turkish government and they keep the villagers in line. You don't want to know how.
The church is a very nice church and we ooh and ahh at the appropriate moments. N. translates for us. At any other time, I would be really impressed -- and I am -- but I'm also anxious to get this game going. After a couple of hours of killing time in Mardin, we leave, passing a massive propaganda message carved into the side of a mountain to the south of town. "Happy is the heart of a man who is a Turk!" it proclaims. Right in the heart of Kurdish country.
After Mardin, there's another jandarma checkpoint. U. has told us not to be friendly, and just be cool and dismissive. I don't think this is a good idea, but I follow his lead. We're asked to step out of the car.
Outside this checkpoint, which is a crumbling cinderblock building that looks like it could be collapsed by a man with a truck, a plan and some concentration, there's one of the massive camouflaged painted armored personnel carriers that the cops and jandarma use. J., being the ex-marine and a California extrovert, is immediately clambering over the vehicle while the four or five troops laugh hysterically. The major, an asiatic man with high cheekbones, asks me to sit down.
"Where are you going?" he asked. He's already quizzed N. and U. and he's asking me in English to see if our stories match.
"To Cizre," I said. "I'm a journalist and want to interview the people there. I hear they're afraid of Saddam."
He nods and then picks up one of our party's cell phones on the desk in front of him. Behind him, the windows of the building are shattered. Iron bars are the only thing between the outside and the inside. It's cold, but that's not why I'm shaking.
He makes a phone call to the Sirnak jandarma post, the regional HQ, apparently. They're checking our press credentials. He smiles at me. "In five, ten minutes, Christopher, you go to Cizre."
"Great!" I said, and stood up.
"You will sit down, please," he said. I did.
The major wanted to ask me a few more questions.
"Your name is Christopher, no?"
I nodded. "Evet," I said. Yes.
He paused to think for a moment. Then he looked at me again.
"Who is that actor, in 'Back to the Future'? With Michael J. Fox?"
"Christopher Lloyd?"
"Yes!" he said.
I was surprised, but I shouldn't have been. The last time I was here, the authority figures of the region exhibited an intense curiosity combined with the air of menace. Here, being in charge means being feared.
After I explained the plot as best I could of the three movies -- you have no idea how difficult that is, even with a translator -- he asked me to explain the rules of American football. So I did, again, as best I could, turning yards into meters and downs into turns. He was thoroughly confused and by the time I got to the concept of a lateral pass, he'd had enough. He called the Sirnak station again.
After a moment he turned back to me. "Bye bye," he said and smiled.
Finally, we continued to Cizre, arriving after dark at the Hotel Onsar. Walking in, it might as well have been the Al Rashid in Baghdad. Journalists as far as the eye could see. N. and U. got a room and J. and I got one. For the next two days, we would negotiate safe passage with the coyotes to take us to the border. Finally, on Wednesday morning, we were off.
On the top of a mountain overlooking Cizre, we said our goodbyes to N. and U., and piled into another taxi with two Kurdish men who didn't speak English. After a short taxi ride, we were put into the back of a truck with high side panels that kept people from seeing in. Our drivers motioned us to stay still and quiet, and we would slip through more jandarma checkpoints. After 45 minutes of traveling, we stopped again, and got into the original taxi. We'd dropped our gitem tail.
After another two hours through spectacular countryside, framed by majestic, snow-capped mountains on all sides, our drivers dropped us in the field and left us with the guide. We're leaving in 15 minutes. When next I write, I should be back in Iraq.
i am a fellow blogger…but not as crazy as you. just felt like writing to you…good luck adventurer……really…good luck, please be careful.xox p
Please be careful!
keep your head down!
Have you ever considered that they might also be reading your blog,.. and thus find out where you are going ?
Or is that just paranoid, anyway good luck!!
Please be careful Chris and look forward to your next post.
Balls. Pure balls.
Great update! Stay safe and good luck.
Good luck my man. You are a brave and valiant man.
I just noticed that now the US government and Iraqi governments are banning the use of certain sat phones in Iraq =/
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/ap/20030402/aponremiea/warsatellitephones_2
This ban only applies to sat phones from Thuraya Satellite Telecommunications Co. of the United Arab Emirates, a Persian Gulf state, so I’m hoping you are in the clear.. Keep up the reports and godspeed..
15 minutes? We’ll be in Baghdad in 15 minutes.
timothyb, saw that one too, but Chris should be ok as he’s using an Iridium phone, which isn’t banned because it doesn’t pinpoint your location as acurately as the Thuraya phones do when you use them.
man o’ man, you have got to be one of the most determined little groups of truth-seekers i’ve come across. i may be as lazy as you are brave,too.i am now quite curious as to how this will come out, so i send much luck .rock on.
Stainless steel ones. No doubt about it. Maybe cast iron.
I pray you make it. May Allah, God, Yahweh be with you as you continue this important dangerous journey.
What you are doing is so important. I so respect you and your high level of energy.
How is the weather currently? There has been weather forecast of a high temperatures of 88+ affecting troops abilities.
Are desert temps that much hotter at 88+ temps due to closeness of equator? How do you hydrate?
Seems like you are in unfriendly terrority. But, once you get into ‘Kurdistan’, you should be okay. I just pray everything goes well. Be safe.
Good luck. You’re one of the few courageous people who dares to do this.
I can’t help being reminded of Nick Danziger’s “Danziger’s Travels” (he used a similar method — minus the bribes — to sneak into Afghanistan during the Soviet war).
Recommended reading for anyone interested in the region. Also the follow-up, “Danziger’s Adventures,” which includes a harrowing chapter about Turkish Kurdistan.
Man oh man, this is clear and lucid, a man with clear sights on what he is doing, I am ever so rarely captivated by a blog entry, but this one really rocked it.
There’s a book in this, fellow. When you make it back, get some tapes and just say everything you remember. You can collate it later, but this or that little snippet can help you recall whole episode that you might otherwise forget.
Stay well.
C_
Hi Chris,
what you are doing is really exciting and I hope that next days you will give us an original view of what happens there out. Good luck!!! or in bocca al lupo as we say in Italy. You should answer “Crepi il lupo!” ;=) I’m a little italian brothers of you: me too, last summer, traveled around, blogging on the road. It was in West Africa and no war over there, only funny and interesting people. You can find my trip blog here
http://radio.weblogs.com/0112986/stories/2002/09/26/questestateInMaliESenegal.html
I suspect that banning journalists from using Thuraya sat phones is more likely so the US can pinpoint the people (probably military) in Iraq using them.
Be safe. Trust no one.
Chris,
Glad everyones prayers, your tenacity, determination and total disregard for sanity, have kept you safe. You are living every journalism student’s dream, every writer’s dream and the dream of many would-be adventurer!! Keep dreamin’, keep safe, keep your head down with your ear to the ground and keep it up!! you are an amazing professional and I look forward to reading your memoirs of your dangerous and adventurous quest for the truth. Thank you.
i’m reading your blog to get information from someone who is on the ground, so when i read things like, ‘The gitem get money and weapons from the Turkish government and they keep the villagers in line. You don’t want to know how.’ i wonder why you’re there, if you don’t want to tell us? also - ‘Syria has closed its borders — except for night vision goggles and Arab fighters entering Iraq with the fevered wish to blow themselves up’ - is this first-hand info you’re sharing, or merely echoing american government propaganda? be a better (eg. more responsible) journalist. please.
A question not to be answered, perhaps. Are you going to iraq kurdistan because you believe that amazing important events (like the emergence of a country called Kurdistan) may happens?
“I nodded. Evet, I said. Yes.”
That’s what Hemingway did in Spain: “Si”, I said. “Yes.” That way both his Spanish and American friends would know what he was saying all the time.
“I nodded. Evet, I said. Yes.”
That’s what Hemingway did in Spain: “Si”, I said. “Yes.” That way both his Spanish and American friends would know what he was saying all the time.
Be careful out there, Chris… and good luck.
Wow, what guts and what a fascinating report. I appreciate you putting your life on the line to report to us (may not be your primary motive). Safe travels to you Chris; I’ll keep you in my prayers.
Stay alert! Trust no-one! Keep your laser handy!
The Computer is your friend. Trust The Computer!
(Seriously, good luck to you.)
your as far from iraq as us troops are from baghdad 10 miles.if you get into iraq the american or british soildiers will throw you out if they catch you in northern iraq or the iraq soldiers would arrest you better keep away from the allies and the enemy.
I’ve been looking for news from the Safe Haven for days. I’m so glad you are there to let us know how the Kurds are doing.
Jane
wow, you’re a crazy maniac, thank god there are people like you out there. can’t imagine the shit you must be running into but hope nothing gets too crazy for you, keep your shit together and keep going man
Absolutely amazing stuff. You have some serious courage. Best of luck to you ( and I think you need all you can get! ).
Chris,
Your courage, sang-froid and sheer bloody craziness is an example to us all. Good luck mate.
Wow. That was riveting reading. Someone wondered why you were there. Ha. They don’t know a reporter’s blood. I’d give my right something to be doing what you’re doing, but I don’t have the guts. Thank dog you do.
MORE!!!!
This is a brave, brave journey. I am with you all the way.
I would like to clear out a few things along the way though, being Turkish and all :)
“Happy is the heart of a man who is a Turk” has no provocative stance as it is a national phrase of pride or some sort. For example, in every single school in Turkey, you will find that phrase etched in some corner. You will see it in the hills of the south east part, and on the western coasts of Turkey too.
Turkish-Kurdish state?
There is no such thing. Turkey has distinct borders that it controls entirely without question. On the south east the majority of the population are Kurds who hold Turkish citizenship.
Turkey has problems with the 20% Kurdish population in the country, there is so much wrong Turkey has done and is still doing that I need not to mention.
Jandarma is Gendarmarie (Military operating as police where police have no jurisdiction/or haven’t been stationed).
Gitem is a term I haven’t heard. Village Guards have been a widely used method by the government during the PKK period that claimed 30,000 lives. But even the village guards themselves have been a problem for the government for a long time. And much has been speculated on how to cease such a role. There is no network of spies or such that I am aware of in the east. The gendarmarie is the dominant figure as you have come across.
Sorry for a long comment.
Bilgin Ozkan
””“Happy is the heart of a man who is a Turk” has no provocative stance as it is a national phrase of pride or some sort.”“
Well, I am a Kurd and I DO see it as a provocative stance. It is rasicit and not a “pride” for the Kurdish people who suffer from the very same Turkish pride.
Many people have been victimized in Turkey, I don’t think the French whould like to be called “German”.
I do not mean to disrespect any Turks. I think they should just stop living in denial.
The “jendarme” are paied by the Turkish goverment to commit crimes. The village guards are armed Kurdish and Turkish villans, paied by the Turkish goverment. Killing people is like drinking water for these thugs.
Don’t you Turks see it? When are you gonna relize that WE DON’T WANT TO BE TURKS? That’s why Turkey has 500 000 soliders in the Kurdish area.
That’s why they spend more than 60% of thier national income to buy wepons.
I guess holding 25 million of Kurds hostage costs alot of moeny.
Now, in every post you write the number of kurds in Turkey increases Peshmergadotnet, it was 20 millions a few days ago, if they are 25 million by now, i guess your people need some more information about birth control..
Seriously, why don’t you just stop whining? If you -and your “so civilized and peaceful and bla bla” Kurds- don’t want to live in Turkey and abide its laws and culture, simply go to your precious “Kurdistan” in Northern Iraq or someplace else. Nobody is holding you “hostage”.
Sorry Superflu
It is something between 20-25 million Kurds in Turkey. Because Kurds are not allowed to register as Kurds (because the Turkish government still sees no Kurds). It is hard to estimate.
According CIA = 14 Million
According EU = 15-18 Million
According to Kurdish Org = 20-25 Million.
Suprfly:
“Seriously, why don’t you just stop whining? If you and your “so civilized and peaceful and bla bla” Kurds don’t want to live in Turkey and abide its laws and culture, simply go to your precious “Kurdistan” in Northern Iraq or someplace else. Nobody is holding you “hostage”.”
First of all Kurds live in Kurdistan, Kurdish soil. We live in our land, we are not planning on moving any where. We have the right to live in our own land and exercise our culture rights and speech our own language. Besides, moving 13-25 million people from one country to an other just because they are oppressed in their own land is not a very smart idea. I know the Turkish government wants that. And some Kemalisits probably. I must say your comment is very “kemalist” like. But forgive me if I am wrong.
Sorry for the long comment.
Peace, Love, human rights for everyone.
Respect. This man has balls. Maybe Pres. Bush should learn a lesson from Christopher. And not sneak out as he did when HE should go to Vietnam.
The best of luck to you. You guys are doing great! Hope you all get home safe.
~Lankly
Is it possible that their was a picture on this side, one of a board with the text welcome to kurdistan on??? Can someone please let me know something??
Regards kani dicle
What is this a joke????
you do what you do and still have time to write novel like stories and post it up in this forum. while there is a clamp down of signal and radio waves in Iraq. also is it not suspicious that the US does not monitor you even though there are many patrols in the areas where you alleged to have travelled.
HHHMMMMM….. Fishy
Oh yeah…..
what do all white people think they patriots going through dangerous areas like war torn Iraq.
Is it for the thrill????
What truth can you get there?????
Saddam is gone. His tyrrany is dead. Yet plenty westerners want to brave the wild and think they doing good.
Illusions I tell you.
Like the movies….. I think yes. Hate to sound racist but what do you white people think you are accomplishing in IRAQ. Do you want praise that badly. I can tell you that you SHOULD pray for the lives of thousands of dead, killed by the hands of people like yourself, for the suffering of thousands more by people like yourself. I really think you are pathetic and child like to even post what you did.
SHAME ON YOU….
Pesmergedotnet
you are saying that Kurds are 25 millions in Turkey.
Ha ha.
in last election september 2003 in Turkey your party DEHAP had %2 of vote of turkey.
Turkey is 70 million so calculate this with your mathematics.
1,5 mllion or something. is that all you have??????
ok lets say it 5 million , there are 20 million differences with your number.
where are they . 20 million stayed in their home. so why they did not voted for DEHAP ????
if you are 25 million so 20 million people voted for Turkish parties that means they are happy with their opinion “being Turkish”.
Chris
Why are you afraid of being caught in Turkey borders to Northern iraq.
Are you carrying something illegal ? Drug, gun or any article that has some special information ?
Are you doing something illegal Against Republic of Turkey,
You are English and you think you can get visa or travelling permy ? Why ??
if I go to your country, pass your border to ireland with worry to being caught by English soldiers, What would you think about me???
if I go to your country and provoking to irish guys to have independent , some places to apart from england. What would you think ???
sorry but I can’t find why you go back to iraq. Do you aprove what bush is doing? Is the USA really wining that war?
I don’t know how you people do it..but congrats/and even knowing that I don’t know you all I am very proud of you all…my boyfriend wesley is working there and all i think of is for him to come home safe to me:-)
god bless all of you!