KIRKUK, Iraq -- This newly liberated city was a scene of joy and jubilation as the people took to the streets, letting out a collective breath they had been holding for 35 years.
It had been a mostly bloodless capture by the PUK and KDP peshmergas. It started this morning, and the Iraqi defenders just gave up or melted away, leaving the Kurdish fighters -- with U.S. support -- to walk practically unopposed into the city.
By the time I got there around 3 p.m., the looting had begun. A government shopping center was gutted and scorched from fire. Young men walked the sidewalks carrying ceiling fans, chairs and anything else they could pick up and carry off.
But in a pleasant surprise, on the way back to Arbil, the peshmergas had set up checkpoints and were relieving people of looted material. Freydoon and Delshad were both pleased to see this. I was too.
But it seemed the majority of the Kirkukis were in the city's central park where a large statue of Saddam Hussein stood. The scene yesterday in Baghdad was replayed as the crowd noosed the statue with steel cable and pulled it down. There were no American troops to help them this time, and that seemed to suit the Kurds just fine. I'm told the Arabs and the Turkomen of Kirkuk are less than pleased by the Kurds' ascendency, but I couldn't verify that. No one wanted to spoil the day with words of ethnic strife. That can wait.
After the statue was felled, the crowd torched a portrait of Saddam that adorned the main government building. Like the Iraqi regime under the firestorm of the last, lightening-quick three weeks, phoof! It was gone.
Majad, a friend of Delshad's shook my hand warmly and then whispered in my ear, "Saddam, goddammit!" Then he looked and me and grinned like a schoolboy who had just gotten away with something. Then he asked me if the war was over. I didn't understand his question, until Delshad told me that the Kirkukis didn't know about the situation in Baghdad. The paranoia of Saddam's regime was such that no one trusted the radio and they hadn't seen the images of the crowd pulling down the statue of Saddam in the capital because the Iraqis had banned satellite dishes. So isolated was Kirkuk that people begged to use my satellite phone so they could call the outside world. I accommodated as many as I could, but it wasn't enough.
Inside the government building, there was nothing but broken glass on the floor and a defaced mural of Saddam Hussein. Oh, and many, many milling peshmergas. This was their victory and they knew it. There is a light American presence here, outside the city, but inside, the peshmergas are the new sheriffs in town.
And none too soon. People were being executed as recently as yesterday, said Jalal Khoshna, a peshmerga commander who was born in Kirkuk.
"I feel like I am newly born!" he exulted.
The city had been one of the ones hardest hit by Saddam's program of "Arabization," which would displace Kurdish families and give their homes and property to Arab families settled from the south. There are up to 300,000 internally displaced people, as the United Nations clinically calls them. Many of them live in squalid refugee camps outside the Kurdish cities such as Arbil or Suleimaniya.
But in a vivid homecoming scene, Khoshna described how he returned to his family's old home in Kirkuk only to find an Arab family living there. He said they were afraid of him and his troops, but he reassured them they could live there until they found a new home. Then he would like his house back, please.
We're now on our way back to Arbil. I'm collecting my stuff and heading south toward Baghdad. I will post pictures very soon that can tell the rest of today's extraordinary story.
Thanks - Great - U are now where history i written more than in Baghdad - Hang on
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I find it amazing that the hypocritcal arab world never screams about the repression of the Kurds and the theft of their homes and land but will scream about Palestine and Israel on a constant basis.
Let he without sin cast the first stone.
Maybe you can let Raed, from ‘Where is Raed’ blog use your sat phone connection when you get farther south. That is, if he came through this OK.
Has anyone heard from Salam Pax…Raed?
It’s very disturbing that he hasn’t posted.
Hello,
Do you think the Kurds will lost this opportunity to try to build their own country? Whar are they telling you? Turkey will not allow it and Turkey is a member of NATO. Do you think peace is possible in the North of Iraq?
The simplistic vision of Mr. Bush, is really amazing. We’re good, they’re bad; You’re with us or against us — I mean this is the kind of thinking I can understand from a 6 year old child, not a USA president. Also, he insisted today in the theory of “Iraq the great-threat-to-the-world”, even after what we saw. Propaganda will have a new meaning after this administration.
It’s not difficult to me to imagine a fundamentalist or at least a hard line government elected in Iraq, even after all the propaganda resources the USA will put in place, to elect a puppet government. So, if in two years or so Iraq has a democratic anti-USA government, what will Mr. Bush and Mr. Donald R. do? Bomb again?
lets not even get to hypocrisy.
You’ll be opening up a Pandora box.
Enough said.
Sounds like that you Chris and your Kurdish friends will have to leave Kirkuk, as Turkey is threatening to invade. Well, you could stay in Kirkuk because you aren’t a PUK/KDP peshmerga, but the peshmerga apparently plan on leaving Kirkuk. I really do believe that the Kurds should have their own little province with Kirkuk as it’s capital, but it should remain a part of Iraq. You know, how we have states in the U.S., so I hope maybe the Kurds could get their own state in Iraq…Be safe.
I saw this and it was pretty funny. You got to see this! (See link below)
http://realpolitik.us/03image/ds1.jpg
Looks like Opie’s post referring to the image at http://realpolitik.us/03image/ds1.jpg is a fake, digitally enhanced photo. Don’t fall for it or others like it. You don’t spread that kinda DE crap around, either.
RE: So, if in two years or so Iraq has a democratic anti-USA government, what will Mr. Bush and Mr. Donald R. do? Bomb again?
Interesting question, indeed. One might look to the latest pResidential auction with special events in Florida for clues; money, probably, bribes, awards, contracts, etc. Yep, the mind of a [very rich] 6-yr-old, one who surrounds himself with deceitful, greedy, machinistic Intellectual-Ego-Mans. Scary, ain’t it? Now try and sleep well, kids (and no name-calling, eh?)
To Deac. That picture of the banner is real, in so far as I saw them carrying it around on the live webcam before the statue was pulled down in front of the Palestinian Hotel.
Why is it that everybody now thinks they are experts telling which images are fake or not?
The image is the real deal, I saw this LIVE as it was happening. You can ask one of the networks to send you I tape I guess, they’ll probably charge you for it.
Chris:
Your reports are the first I read when I check out the news from Iraq. Then I check the English Al Jazeera. Finally I go to the New York Times.
I’ve got to tell you the NYTimes story about the fall of Kirkuk (Kirkuk’s Swift Collapse Leaves a City in Chaos) was so confusing I couldn’t finish reading it.
Thank you for giving us the inside story of what is happening up north. Your writing is wonderful, clear, and has a humanist value missing in everything else I read.
Stay safe, it’s not over.
Chris, are you going to look for Salam Pax in Bagdad? I think many people are interested in his fate and authenticity. Good luck and take care!
There are rumors flying that Al Jazeera reported Salam was wounded & in hospital in Najaf.
http://www.microdocs-news.info/blogger/2003/04/07.html
I would tend to believe it’s not true. In the first place, Najaf is 100 miles South of Baghdad. If he really had been injured one would think he’d be in hospital close to home.
I’m with Radley Balko @ ‘The Agitator’, and chalk it up to lack of internet access.
http://www.theagitator.com/archives/005438.php
Salam’s last post that I know of was ‘test’ on March 27th.
by the way, NPR’s Ivan Watson reported on the same looting, but mention of the peshmerga checkpoints relieving looters of their loot was conspicuously (at least to me) absent from the NPR report. interpretive charity should have us assume that he simply wasn’t aware of them, but still.
oops. it seems Ivan Watson is in Mosul, not Kiruk. mea culpa.
RE: Do you think peace is possible in the North of Iraq?
Just re-reading everyone’s messages … I hate to be negative about this kind of thing, but I’m almost afraid that “peace” in the conventional sense of the word is not possible in any portion of the Middle East. Hasn’t the unrest been going on since the brothers Jacob and Esau? I’m a bit forgetful of my history lessons but that seems like an awfully long time to fight.
FUCK U.S.A !!
Intelligent Post Jan…. Freedom for millions and all you have is that? The feelings those Iraqis are now feeling warms my heart and mind. Your blind hatred of America only minimizes you. Do you not like to see the Iraqi people finally shaken loose of Saddams shackles?
I don’t see freedom for anyone in the Middle East in the long run, either. Right now all I see is a bunch of looters, happy they’re free of Saddam, which is wonderful, but I’m afraid of what America has planned for them.
Great report, wow, to be in your shoes.
Execellent story Chris. Thanks!
And as to the veracity of that photo linked above, I’ve tracked down enough info to say it is a real photo and it was broadcast, but I just have to wonder who actually made the banner. Last time I checked, “wankers’ was British slang and not Middle Eastern (it’s not even all that common is the US). Still … sort of funny.
Thank you for the brilliant updates, Chris - as oryoki said above, you bring a special and very important touch to your reporting. Hope your feet have recovered well, and that you’re staying safe.
Orb: Yup, interesting that “wankers” was used, innit?
Cheers!
Shame on you Deac for immediately dismissing a picture, which is REAL! I saw those two Iraqi gentlmen on TV with a sign, but I couldn’t read what they said. Until, later online I found the still photo which the two Iraqis are holding a sign which says: “Go home human shields, You U.S. wankers”
Here is a good read from Eason Jordan, the chief news executive at CNN. It just gives more reasons of why this war was justified.
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/11/opinion/11JORD.html?ex=1050638400&en=ea21e8c88feae21c&ei=5062&partner=GOOGLE
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This political cartoon is one of many I have seen that reflect the truth in a humorous way, click the link below:
http://realpolitik.us/03image/colemain_4-10.jpg
Brenda Stardom’s blogs tell in an illuminating way what being on the other end of the news feeds is like. Do you have time to check in with her at:
http://brendastardom.com/home.asp
??
Um, that cartoon doesn’t show the hospitals not being able to work, or people living in fear of having their possessions stolen…
You have to be stupid to think this War is over. The greater conflict is only just about to begin.
The photo that opie posted is real. I saw those two iraqi’s live on tv and “All” the sat stations, as well as the regular networks. They were walking around the statue in the square the morning they toppled the statue. I saw them standing and posing for photos by many news people. It is not a fake. The majority of the regular iraqi peoples are grateful the U.S. came to get rid of Saddaam. Face it. Its up to them now to grab the brass ring and run with it. We got rid of Saddam now they must liberate themselves, and determine their own future.
Deborah
And it is really just too bad we can’t do this for all other countries. Can’t wait to talk to my marine son-in-law and friends to get the scoop from the ones who were actually there talking with the regular iraqi people.
Deborah said:
“And it is really just too bad we can?t do this for all other countries.”
!? But you can, and you will! Trust me. With all the intelligence used in your bombs you have a really smart administration.
!? “…talking with the regular Iraqi people”? You must be blind. You mean “killing the regular iraqi people”?
I don’t understand this total disrespect for human life, this lack of values and moral.
And what’s this “wanted dead or alive” in gaming cards? Mr. Bush & Co. really are cowboys that know no laws they didn’t invent.
Deborah said:
“And it is really just too bad we can?t do this for all other countries.”
?! But you can, and you will! Trust me. With all the intelligence used in your bombs you have a really smart administration.
!? “…talking with the regular Iraqi people”? You must be blind. You mean “killing the regular iraqi people”?
I don’t understand this total disrespect for human life, this lack of values and moral.
And what’s this “wanted dead or alive” in gaming cards? Mr. Bush & Co. really are cowboys that know no laws they didn’t invent.
(Sorry to post again, some words did not show up)
But then again Jose, it’s perfectly alright with you if Saddam and his maniac sons kills regular iraqi people any time anywhere they so choose. I guess you are of the mind that U.S. military deliberatly targets and kills iraqi civilians. And I do know nothing will change your mind about that. How sad and cynical you are. A nation is freed of a brutal Dictater and you are sad and angry about it. I wonder how you would feel if you were a person who lost family in the torture prisons of Saddam.
I am sad and disappointed in one thing, and that our military did not guard the mueseums that is so important to the iraqi heritage, as well as it’s great history. I will one day myself go to iraq and I sure would have loved to have visited that muesuem that had 7000 year old artifacts.
On a side note, I read an AP report that some soldiers and media found the china of the Kuwaiti Royal Family in one of Saddams “Love Nests’ “Safe Houses”. Not only has he brutalized the regular iraqi citizens, but don’t forget what he did to neighboring countries as well. The Kuwaiti China is just a reminder. I wonder how many Kuwaiti citizens had to die and be tortured just so he could eat off the Kuwaiti’s Royal Family China?
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wpdyn/articles/A13908-2003Apr12.html
`Deborah
Jose wrote:
Mr. Bush & Co. really are cowboys that know no laws they didn’t invent.
You are right that Mr. Bush is a cowboy literaly owning a ranch in Texas. I don’t personally like Mr. Bush and did not vote for him. If I wanted to go down to the street corner and shout to all my neighbors what a no good SOB our president is, I know I could do that, and not have to worry that he (Mr. Bush) would send in his sidekicks or henchmen to rip my tongue out of my throat. And now the Iraqi’s no longer have that fear from the sad man Saddam. I know most of them have to be happy about that. It’s only logical. Why can’t you be happy for them?
~Deborah
Deborah said:
“But then again Jose, it’s perfectly alright with you if Saddam and his maniac sons kills regular iraqi people any time anywhere they so choose.”
You said that, not me. I’m thinking about this for a long time and you can believe me: In the end of the day I would choose to support the USA (regarding, Iraq, Cuba, North Corea…), no doubt.
That doesn’t mean this is right. 9-11 cannot justify any arbitrarity Mr. Bush takes out his cowboy hat. Sad and cynical is to justify our mistakes with the mistakes others did.
Where we disagree is about the objectives of this war: You and most of your country believe it’s about freedom; I believe it’s about oil and money — and I can’t help thinking you’re all brainwashed (not all, I do know some americans against this war, including an american jew, but I guess the cultural elite is not America).
That’s sad indeed what happened after the American victory. Another crime against humanity, no doubt. The museum, the library, UNICEF, hospitals, the regular people… nothing was safe. But, here we go again, the oil fields were secured! Can’t you see how transparent the Bush administration is?
And the justification for the looting by the amazing Mr. Donald R.? Pathetic. History will judge that dreadful character.
“I know most of them have to be happy about that. It?s only logical. Why can?t you be happy for them?”
It’s not that logical considering the arab mentality about honor and pride. The people is the people, they have a new power there and they’ll try to get along. You didn’t see massive demonstrations of all that happiness. To compare Iraq with the Berlin wall is another propaganda ready made bullshit. You have anti-american protests in some cities already. I ask again: If in a couple of years an anti-american elected government rises, what Mr. Bush and the smart people do? Bomb again? — First things first, Siria is next…
But, I’ll be happy for them when I see all that freedom and happiness, you can count on that.
You didn’t vote for Mr. Bush (you and most of you fellow americans, I believe), so you are a moderate. Think about it. Where’s the alternative thinking in America?