TAQTAQ, Iraqi Kurdistan -- There is no fighting in Kirkuk tonight. But we still got more than we bargained for.
The evening began with word from Sabah, my translator, that the push for Kirkuk was underway. J. and I, along with his new buddies Rex, Juan Carlos and Jason, were ready to go, especially after Rex had heard of fighting near Chamchamal, close to Kirkuk.
A word about Rex. He's ex-Army Special Forces freelancing for -- no kidding -- Soldier of Fortune. I've never met anyone who read that magazine, much less anyone who writes for it. Rex looked the part, too, striding around the hotel lobby in desert camouflage pants and a flak jacket, hooah! Physically, he's an imposing guy, shaved head, strong jaw. He is Mr. Clean at War.
Once our party was assembled, we headed out to Taqtaq, a town about 35 km from Kirkuk where I had been earlier in the day. Brig. Gen. Rabar Said, the regional commander -- and the one who would know what was going on -- had invited me to stay the night but I had turned him down. Now, I wondered if he had been sending me code, offering me a front-row seat to some action. He was an old friend, after all.
Tearing through the darkened countryside of Kurdistan, we passed several checkpoints where bemused peshmergas told us all the same thing. No fighting in Kirkuk. All quiet. The general is in Taqtaq.
As we arrived at the command post at around 11 p.m., a group of peshmergas greeted us. No, there was nothing happening in the region tonight, they said, and in fact, Said had left the post. There was a party down in the town and he had gone to celebrate the fall of Baghdad. His staff had gone with him.
Hm, I thought. I doubt the Battle for Kirkuk is on when the general staff is partying in the village square. J. agreed. Rex, however, wanted to find the general. Fair enough, as I wanted to go to a party.
When we arrived the village square was packed. Young men or every appearance were dancing to recordings of Kurdish singers but Said was nowhere to be seen. As we got out of our cars, several young men began to approach us. They pressed close and I could smell the sweat on them. They noticed we were American and began shouting, "George Bush!" "I love George Bush!" "Thank you, America!" I began clapping to the music, and they started clapping and applauding. Soon their hands were lifting me and the rest of my party up on their shoulders, hoisting over the crowd. It was a scene of genuine jubilation, which I have never experienced first hand. They treated us like rock stars, grabbing for us. My kafiyah disappeared, only to show up in the hands of an young boy who looked around 10-years-old. He carefully placed it back around my neck.
I was lifted up again, amid cheers of "Amrika! Amrika!" "Thank you!" "We love you!" The raw emotion bubbling up from this mass of Kurdish Iraqis was overwhelming. For the first time in their lives, they no longer felt the threat of Saddam Hussein hovering over their heads on mountains just a few kilometers away. And they found Americans in their midst. Jubilation doesn't do it justice.
I was disoriented, turned around, I couldn't get them to put me down. People were slapping my back, shaking my hand. And they were everywhere, everyone yelling out "George Bush!" They began kissing me in thanks. I tried to get out of the crowd, and noticed J. and Rex still up on the shoulders of the youths. They were having a ball.
Sabah grabbed my hand and got me into Freydoon's taxi. He had to shove people out of the way. I just tried to catch my breath. Faces and hands pressed against the windows, still shouting thanks to me. I gave them a thumbs-up and smiled, as I had been doing the whole time.
I was uncomfortable being in that flesh-press, welcoming as it was. I felt like I had become the story and my presence made it impossible for me to report or take photographs. I was glad they were happy, though, and felt honored that they would share their emotions with me. But I was glad to be out of the mosh pit of love, and on our way back to Arbil.
Tonight was a night for celebration. Saddam's government seems to be kaput. I just wanted to get to bed.
Wow - go Christopher! But still, stay safe. Nothing is certain, and treachery abounds. Enjoy the partying while keeping one eye firmly on your back.
I notice that a lot of the Iraqi’s use their shoes to hit the posters & statues of Saddam; aside from the ‘obvious’, is there some special or deeper significance to that action?
As I understand it, many cultures in the middle east consider showing the bottom of one’s foot to be a grave insult.
After the end of the first Gulf War, Saddam supposedly had a large mural of George Bush placed on the ground outside the front door of a Baghdad hotel in such a way that everyone who entered or left would have to walk on it.
No citations on either of the above, I’m afraid…just stuff I’ve picked up while reading. Your mileage may vary.
apotheosis
Yes you are right. It was Hotel Al Rashid I think or Sheraton?
And yes, hiting or showing your under fet is a great insult in Middle East culture.
Chris, You got a Kurdish style wellcome.
As I was reading your blog which is my first source of news everyday, Radio 4 announced that Kurdish forces have taken Kirkuck so your instinct was correct it seems, he was offering you a front row seat!
So glad to hear that the jubilation (doesn’t do it it justice) is for real. v. confusing here to know whether pictures of a few thousand on the streets celebrating is really representative of 5 million iraquis. I certainly hope so but have uneasy feeling that the anti-propaganda brigade have a point. Have the special forces really melted away or is there more intense guerrila warfare to come?
also, don’t know if you have heard there (and certainly not a mention of it here) that Israeli f16 bombers dropped bombs on Gaza strip two days ago. I can forward you email reproting it from Gaza if you are interested.
You one brave and fascinating man though and you are providing invaluable insight for those of us relying on your feedback for independent and unstyilised ethnographic material.
All power to you. Not a praying kind of girl, but will carry on ‘willing’ you a safe road.
best,
cAtriona (England)
Hopefully the Kurds are not too disappointed when they don’t get an independent Kurdistan.
Now is when things get interesting. I think you should keep plugging for donations so that you can see what takes place in the next year.
I am glad that Husseing is out. But we need direct feed from the new power structures emerging on the ground. When the embedded typists for the U.S. pull out and hang up their flak jackets, Iraq will fade from the headlines. Just like Afghanistan. But the real story is what happens next.
Longing to be there, after 6 and a half weeks in Baghdad. I’m so full of joy that Saddam’s gone, but so angry at the way it’s been done, and the way he was kept there so long. Found your site while looking for info on Chalabi - I don’t trust the UK / US / INC for a second. Will be back there soon - hope to bump into you there Chris. Stay safe.
Bravo, brave man.
Ummm, I think it’ll be up to the Kurds as to whether there’s an independent Kurdistan. The US can try to keep Iraq intact, and Turkey can threaten, but I suspect that the Kurds will demand a seat at the the table—and they deserve one—in determining the future shape of Iraq.
And when push comes to shove, I suspect that if the Bush administration is true to form, it will back the Kurds and try to get Turkey to back down. And then it gets interesting.
Is there a reason why you didn’t explain to them the evils of George Bush, and why you and your pals voted for Gore? What about the broader picture of how this war is all wrong since it will inflame the middle east against the west? This is what you bring for sale is it not?
Hi Chris.
Well what can I say? April 10, 2003 - you were in Kurkuk when Saddam came down.
Tantamount to being in Berlin, November 9, 1989 when the wall came down.
And we were there too because of you!
I thank you. 570 NEWS thanks you. Canadian listeners thank you.
Can’t wait to witness history with you again tomorrow.
Dave
William Stevenson, why don’t you jam your wedge politics for a few days? A tyrant has fallen, we can all be glad for that, even if we were against the war.
Perish the thought that you’d confront your hypocrisy. Mine is an honest attempt to stimulate reflection. If the shoe fits, take her home.
RE: Perish the thought that you’d confront your hypocrisy. Mine is an honest attempt to stimulate reflection. If the shoe fits, take her home.
Stevies, if you think Christopher went to Iraq to sell anybody on anything you’re more confused than you sound. He went to experience and report, thastis allis. Accept it and slog on. Many folks did not vote for either of those boneheads - I didn’t: I did vote, crazily thinking that was how the pResident was placed. Next time I’ll bid on the auction - it’ll be on eBay and will have the highest reserve price ever. LOL&CAMS (sorry, easily amused.) Yours, sir, is an honest attempt to push your choice of poison. Confront it and wear it, cuz it DO be fittin’.
Willi old boy, got your panties on backwards, mate? Why don’t YOU go to Iraq and tell the story then, eh? I suspect you have the neolithicly knuckleheaded tendency to view the rather complex world we live in as a black and white 2-dimensional construct fit only for “slot A” and “tab B”. For one to affirm such a complex notion as engaging in warfare - to WILLINGLY KILL PEOPLE that have never done you or your family any harm - under the arbitrary pretext of national protection without grounds, is a simpleton’s path. This war is not over, and you would do well to remember that. You would also do well to remember that Chris is over there at no small risk to his own life to bring you and the rest of the world a story that you couldn’t get from CNN or (most likely your beloved) Bill O’Rielly and his own brand of McWar propaganda. So a hearty “up yours Willi boy” for being such an ass and for not knowing when to keep your flapping trap shut. I don’t like Saddam, but I like putting my own countrymen in harm’s way for no discernable reason even less. And as for the old Bush/Gore argument - ARE YOU BETTER OFF NOW THAN YOU WERE 3 YEARS AGO???? I know I’m not - and I know my country is not. So, trying to pick at someone halfway around the world for voting on someone that isn’t responsible for the current miserable state of affairs seems a stupid thing to do, now doesn’t it?
your friend and Gulf War 1.0 veteran
Drew
hi
i like to send your massge to you
i am in taqtaq your subject are good by taqtaq….