Some of you have been asking questions in the comments sections of this site. I will attempt to answer some of them as best I can in a quick one-off. These are questions that don't warrant a full story or dispatch.
What was the problem with the Iridium satellite phone?
There was nothing wrong with the actual phone, as it turns out. But for some reason I couldn't connect to the Iridium network that allowed me access to the Net. No connection, no email. And that was bad. This wasn't Iridium's fault, of course, but really more a connection issue between the Toughbook and the phone. Anyway, the data guys at Iridium set me up with a static IP address rather than DHCP and it's working fine now.
Why'd you use a dumb -- and offensive -- metaphor about the Bataan death march?
Because I was in such a hurry to get to sleep that I got lazy and used an inappropriate metaphor, for which I apologize, especially to people who lost relatives in Bataan. What I experienced was not a death march. However, it was a forced march in that once I signed on, there was no stopping. I was physically hauled to my feet several times or pushed forward when I thought I was too far gone to continue. We climbed five or six mountains in pitch blackness, sometimes going high enough to trudge through calf-high snow. I hallucinated and became delirious. There was little water to drink and not much food. The language barrier was beyond frustration. Death march? No. But I honestly wanted to die several times.
When are you going to start reporting?
What, interviewing Kurds about their aspirations for nationhood isn't good enough? Talking with peshmerga about their support for the war too mundane? Should I be throwing myself into the pitch of battle immediately after a 36-hour forced march (see above)? I just got here. I left a little over a week ago, and I think there's been some decent reporting already. It's not Associated Press inverted pyramid-style writing, but I didn't think people wanted that on a site such as this. My reporting combines the personal, the micro and the macro. It's not necessarily new, but it works for me.
How do the gitem control the villagers?
Well, by receiving guns and money from Ankara, they intimidate, bully, harass and sometimes torture -- or just kill -- the villagers they supervise. They're local thugs used by the Turkish military to keep order in the southeast. The system reached its apogee during the 1984-1998 Turkish-PKK war, but they're still around and terrifying the people of the region. While the emergency rule has been officially lifted, Turkey finds the gitem a valuable hammer for pounding the nail of Kurdish nationalism. (Mind you, most of the people abused by the gitem system are just simple villagers who get caught up in personal score-settling. Nice, huh?)
What the heck is chai?
It's what people call tea in this part of the world.
Where are the pictures? And how do we know you're really in Iraq?
Patience, patience. I've just sent three of the pictures -- of the Orthodox Church in Mardin, at our camp in the meadow waiting to leave and a picture of J. and two peshmergas who helped us. They should be up later today, I hope. My bandwidth is extremely limited. Also, bear in mind, that the last two days weren't exactly conducive to snap-shooting.
That's it for now. At the moment, I can barely walk. My feet are in bad shape, but J. and I will head to Arbil tomorrow where I will hook up with some old friends and renew my contacts with the KDP and the KRG. I'll post a full accounting of the forced march tonight in a few hours. That is, if anyone's interested.



For what its worth, I think its an amazing thing you are doing. Even though I think you’ve made it clear that you don’t have the resources of an international news network, many people are still expecting such results.
Welcome to the I-want-it-now! generation, I guess.
This kind of journalism is so intriguing to sit back and watch, especially readers consumption of it.
Can’t wait for the pictures though!
Hi Chris,
Glad to hear you’re safe,I have been following you since before you hit the $10000 mark, and find this the most interesting insight into what is really going on over there. Independent journalism is what so many “think” we have, but in reality on the a brave few like yourself are actually reporting indepently. Thanks… stay safe.
Don’t get disheartened by the few negative comments you receive. The vast majority of us are waiting with bated breath. I wish you well on your journey.
Take care and keep the news coming but above all keep safe.
Watching the war through blogs gives a level of detail and realism unobtainable from TV or AP-style press. This is amazing.
From this level it’s easy to see the war will decay into a LIC (Low Intensity Conflict) that will last for months if not years…. a much clearer perspective than staged briefings from Kuwait City. Best wishes and good luck.
Chris, congratulations on making it so far! It sounds like a terrible, scary trip; I’m sorry you’re in bad shape physically. Good luck, and we’re rooting for you! Of course there are going to be criticisms; there always are. It doesn’t mean people don’t want to read you, and aren’t concerned and excited for you.
i’m interested. good luck and be safe.
i advise you to be careful with those words about gitem or kurds being tortured, if you’re planning to come back through turkey that is. turkish police is not too dumb to check web, last year a guy got arrested because he was the system administrator of a website’s forum where that kind of things were being discussed. even calling diyarbakir or any other southeastern turkish territory “kurdistan” could get you in a lot of trouble.
i’m a turk, i have a million things to say about kurds and their accusations just like any other turk you will come across, but i guess this is not the right platform for it.
good luck “down there” (from istanbul).
Chris,
Relieved to hear you are safe and taking some time to recoop. I don’t think most of us appreciate the rigours you are enduring to do this.
I greatly appreciate your descriptions of life for the Kurds, the political situation with Turkey, and the thinking of the locals. THAT is what is so hard to get honestly these days. The thing I want to understand is how all this is playing with the locals, how we (the US) are percieved, as conquerors or as liberators, and what we have to do (or ought not to do) to change from one to the other.
Pleas, no gung-ho wiz-bang geez these weapons are the greatest. There’s far too much of that being reported already.
Report on the people.
Christopher,
What a voyage. Thought it was probably tea…don’t let the critics get you down; maybe they’re just jealous…
I love what you are sharing and you need to write what you need to write.
This isn’t ‘English 101’.
Stay strong - maybe you’ll be lucky enough to soak your feet in a nice warm tub of water with epsom salts…
Just ignore the gripes. Fat chance any of them undertaking such a journey or such a task. Good luck, god speed and keep up the reports.
starliz
Thanks for your response to the critiques! And don’t be too downhearted. You are being read and appreciated. Stay safe, Chris.
Genuinely looking forward to hearing more details about the forced march. And I find your personal, interactive, and even self-effacing approach to be one of the most effective takes on this current conflict. Take care of yourself kid.
Glad you’re still alive. Great work so far! Keep it up.
Chris,I think you are a honest person.Good work,very good work.Take care of yourself.
Very relieved you survived the march. Ignore the critics and just keep writing. I think you would be surprised to know how many appreciative readers you have. Above all, stay safe!
Way to live life Chris. Live it. I feel like I am there with you when I read your work, I hope to travel the world someday too, and see everything I can firsthand myself.
I think your writing style and subjects have been marvelous! Keep it up, Chris. I love hearing the micro as well as the macro. I want to know it all, i.e., not just ‘the story’, but also what it’s like to be in YOUR shoes. I cannot believe what you described about your march. I admire you greatly for what you’re doing…
Keep up the great work. Ignore your critics — jealousy is certainly one of the factors for their sniping.
I agree with Trish — I want to know it all and love hearing from someone who doesn’t have the constraints of the major media.
Chris,
Im trully impressed about what are you doing. Even though you dont have all the resources you need, You are doing a great job there. Donīt give up. Ignore the critics and the most important keep safe! Looking to hear more from you.
Chris, You are giving me exactly what I hoped for. I want to know the things that people won’t tell a high profile reporter because they are scared of retribution. When you give details about the crossing please answer these questions. Why did the guides want to push you so hard? If they do this repeatedly how do they recover from such a grueling trip and do it again with someone else? Did they turn around and go back after tucking you in? Are they just incredibly tough?
What you’re doing is more informative and more important than any major news site, period. Stay safe.
You’re simply amazing, Chris. I believe that what you’re doing is a far more interesting and much more important kind of journalism than what I can find watching anything on television over here. There are more of us who are on your side than aren’t. Be safe, and take comfort where you can (and remember that chai is good for the soul).
Interested! Yes!
We will be right here waiting on an update!.
Be safe and take care.
Chris: remember the legal phrase: Illegitimus non carborundum — don’t let the b——s grind you down. I think what you are doing is superb, and I love your writing style. So don’t let the grouches of the world get inside your head! Rest those feet and then make my day with a daily look from your perspective!
Thanks
Cherie
[Off topic comment deleted]
Christopher, please continue doing what you’re doing and don’t pay any attention to your critics. So far, you’ve been the one showing the courage and fortitude to get back to iraq (to coin a phrase). I look forward to whatever reports you can send us.
And Matt Labash, in the future please just provide a link to articles you want to post. Large posts can slow down the website and the comments. Thank you,
-is-
[Off topic Comment deleted]
How do ANY of you know he’s really there???
Forgive me, but I think you’ve made your point, don’t you think, Mr. Labash?
(Michael, I thought you were editing these things!).
Clearly this blog is a forum for a wide variety of ideas (I surmise, Mr. Labash, that you have some free time now that the lawsuit against your journalistic integrity has been settled, and can focus on hijacking other people’s blogs?), but nonetheless, a bit of decorum out of respect for Mr. Allbritton’s journalistic endeavor is probably in order. Again, please provide links only.
Christopher, bravo for your commitment to pursuing these stories (and there will be many)in what is undoubtedly a dangerous and critical point in the region’s contemporary history. I have an idea as to how hard you worked to do this.
Be careful, be diligent, and don’t forget why what you’re doing is important.
Nancy
Chris, I’d like to hear your tales of your journey. Are you advancing with the Kurds and U.S. Special Forces as they near Kirkuk and Mosol and other cities? If the Kurds go to Kirkuk, Turkey may step in. Looks like the Iraqi people are realizing that they are indeed being liberated, as they are welcoming the Allied troops. It really is heartwarming to see and hear the people of Iraq express their gratitude; A young boy looked at the Marines and said something barely understandable that turned out to be an English word - chocolate. A man shouted “Good, Bush” as he drove past.…It’s hard to tell whether the appreciation is genuine, or just a way of playing it safe with the new masters. But Lance Cpl. Brian Cole, 20, of Kansas City, Kan., was bowled over by the 7-year-old girl who handed him a Christmas card with this painstakingly written text: “Thank you for liberate us. And thank you for help us. You are a great army.”
Later…
Some Iraqis Show Gratitude for Liberation
Matt Labash, why do you keep posting this stuff. Please get your own website and paste a link. Didn’t you read the part where indigoskye said “Large posts can slow down the website and the comments”
Here is an link to a Chai site Chai! if you would like to more about Chai.
See, links are not so hard ….
Perhaps Mr. Labash (if it really is him) should read this.
[Off topic comment deleted]
To Moogirl: Well, I don’t know for SURE that he’s there, but he’s a friend of mine, I went to a going-away party for him, he’s not in NY, and I don’t think he’s sociopathic, so I’m thinking, yeah, he’s there.
lol @ Emily, ok, I’m new here so I thought I’d ask.
raise your feet for a while before sleeping.
try this yoga stretch; squat and put the weight on your heels while the feet are curled.
i think physical endurance is going to be key. also, i t seems that the energy of some of the readers is unfortunate..but..perhaps that is part of the insignia..of this action. that people are severely hurt by the corporate media; and it shows when they are challenged to be fully engaged on their own.i’ll check in you later.
If the turks are attacking civilians, why does CNN not mention this?
Yea, those Kurds are soooo fast overland you’d swear they were gliding as easy as fish in a pool. I know, I’ve hiked with them. Very impressive…and the loss of five sons…well, the way to protect a homeland is not Disney.
The Turks shelling when they are in the mood…well, they just hate the Kurds for the most part. Too bad, as they are two tough races. Their cursed hate goes back so far. And the Turkish Army is…arrogant…This comes from having ridden on a Turk troop train in central Turkey. You can see why Ataturk had to shell port cities to stop them from wearing the fez (1920”s)
Hell, and their last memory of fighting Euros was at Gallipoli, where they forced a French/British/New Zealand/Australian military contingent to give up and retreat. Ah, the battle plan was promoted by Winston Churchill. I guess he was still hopped up over his time in the Boer Wars.
Anyway, does the media care to carry things about Turkish shelling of civilians when we were trying to give Turkey a clean bill of coalition health? Nada on that…
Nice to see this last report…
Tony Chopkoski
Chris
You are mentioning that Gitem abusing the most people.
Do you think PKK do not abuse the people ??
They do not kill their people ??
They do not kill their friends if they are not going to join them or trying to leave them.??
Do you think PKK does not do Drug trade.??
Do you think PKK does not rape Kurdish people and accusing the Turkish Army to provoke their people. ??
Don’t you think How English Army attack to Irish people when they want to liberty.
Did you give them a freedom ???
Why İrish people wants to freedom and you are in iraq instead of being in ireland ???
You have a respect of people’s freedom and Human rights . So why you came to Gallipolli in 1915. To have a holiday ?? to make bombing exercises ??
Why black people stiill second class person in your country.
Do they have proper education ?
Do they have proper Job ?