Off to Najaf, inshallah...
I'm trying to organize a trip to Najaf tomorrow, and hopefully to get into the shrine. A couple of friends of mine did it last week, but left after three days inside. They reported no weapons in the shrine proper, but instead they were stored around the shrine in the nearby buildings. However, other organizations, including the AP, have published pictures of Mahdi fighters manning machine guns that the cutline said was _in the shrine._ Also, an Iraqi reporter who helps TIME out has reported that people in Najaf are sick of the Mahdi firing mortars from either within the shrine compound or from its minarets. So, I don't know what to make of that.
And let's not even get into the whole confusion of Moqtada al-Sadr's "will he or won't he?" crabwalk on whether he's vacating the shrine or not. There have been so many conflicting reports that I can't begin to make sense of the state of play. Suffice it to say, confusion reigns at this point.
Thus, the expedition to Najaf. I'll be taking a BGan satellite receiver and my laptop, so I should be able to file, if needed. But I may not be able to get into the shrine or even to Najaf; we've got to go through Kufa, where there have been reports of relatively heavy fighting.
So hopefully we'll be able to see a little bit of what's going on. Wish me luck.
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Comments
Watch your back, fella.
Posted by: Angry Blue Planet | August 22, 2004 5:54 PM
inshallah,
I’ve read somewhere that they are suposedly going to stop harrassing you media/reporter types.
from you blog;
…”an Iraqi reporter who helps TIME out has reported that people in Najaf are sick of the Mahdi firing mortars …”
Those “common man” street reports I hope you get to interview.
The shrine may be a safe place for you to talk to the various pilgrims or foot soldiers by then?
I hope you ask people their opinions not of Sadr but of Al Sistani.
btw,
on a side note question…
Maybe you can ask them about their Olympic soccer teams progress ? AT least those fortunate enough to view the games.
I for one am shocked that they have an outside chance of maybe bringing home any medal.
I’ve read the players stand to make $25,000 each when it’s all said and done ( Sports illustrated net story )
Stay safe, I’m sure you’ll stick out like a sore thumb just the same ;)
Have a safe trip.
God speed Chris.
Posted by: Airedale | August 22, 2004 5:55 PM
Hey Chris,
I don’t know if you watched any of the Olympics but the American basketball team isn’t a dream team and pretty much deserve to be sent home.
New Zealand on the other hand has a pre game ritual.
I swear they have such a Polenesian(sp) influence. A war dance done in unison that pays respect and honor to the opposition in the upcomming contest.
There is no “I” in TEAM on their squad .
If you haven’t seen it, well, I can’t do justice in explaining.
Well!
I just found out the Iraqi soccer team beat the Australian team.
Iraq advances to the medal rounds!
GO for the Gold Iraq…
inshallah
Posted by: Airedale | August 22, 2004 6:11 PM
Chris. Jack Sunday, KFGO-AM Fargo North Dakota here. You did an interview with me some months ago. You did well and I thank you again.
All I ask of you this time is to tread carefully and trust few…
Good luck, amigo
Posted by: jack sunday | August 22, 2004 7:25 PM
Chris-
Keep your head up and your eyes open. Cant wait to see the information your trip provides.
Posted by: Jason | August 22, 2004 9:19 PM
Good Luck !
Posted by: Carl | August 23, 2004 1:29 AM
Keep safe.
Ben P
Posted by: Ben P | August 23, 2004 1:33 AM
Hey, if you hear something about an italian Journalist that’s missing in Najaf or maybe Kufa, please report to us: he’s disappeared 2 days ago, and we are hardly looking for him!
Thanks
p.oddone [at] warnews.it
Posted by: Paolo | August 23, 2004 2:25 AM
Oh, I’ve forgotten to say that his name is Enzo Baldoni.
Posted by: Paolo | August 23, 2004 2:26 AM
A weapons hunt? Nice.
Posted by: yawn | August 23, 2004 2:36 AM
Sounds a little bit crazy for me; A trip to Najaf!
And by the way; Go for the Gold Iraq!!!
Good Luck & Keep safe!
Posted by: mo | August 23, 2004 4:01 AM
Take good care - of COURSE, good luck to you, and come back safely and soon.
Posted by: Gail | August 23, 2004 4:20 AM
I hop I can join you in such great trip..
Some notes that might help you
1- Iraqis were not used to reporters. Most of them would feel more confort if you talked to them in private session.. I would write down some questions in Arabic .. And ask they to reply by ticking options.. The answer paper should not be read by your translator in front of the interviewee.. I heard from friends in Annajaf that local people are not feel free in reply, they affraid of revenge by Sadrees ..
2- Try your best to visit some ordinary families at their houses and eat their food. Sharing somebody food, in our culture, is a great honor and is a good introductory to people open harts and trust.
3-Try not to talk about politics directely , ask them about their normal lifes, schools, marriage , love, drinks, food.. Their replies might give you indirectly some insight about the real situation..
Good luck and Salam aliakum
Posted by: Ali | August 23, 2004 4:50 AM
i heard allawi doesn’t want any journalists around there, be careful . well you already know that. hopefully you will write something insightful
Posted by: Anonymous | August 23, 2004 6:17 AM
Thank You for doing this for us. Good Luck!
Posted by: Simon Hürlimann | August 23, 2004 12:33 PM
Several Iraqi blogs claim that public opinion in Najaf is extremely anti-Sadr. I’ll be curious to see if Chris confirms this….
Posted by: Anonymous | August 23, 2004 5:53 PM
Chris,
Posted by: marcus | August 23, 2004 8:18 PM
Thanks for doing this chris - as ever there’s so little info available about what the ordinary people in the street think (or not in the street if you’re in najaf) that its hard to know what’s really going on.
good luck..
Posted by: zenchicken | August 23, 2004 8:53 PM
Good Luck Chris. Stay safe!
Posted by: Matt S. | August 24, 2004 12:22 AM
Would anyone in Najaf who supports the Al-Sadr Army tell an american journalist that they do????
Posted by: Anonymous | August 24, 2004 12:33 AM
Hi Christopher, first time “commentor” so im sorry for sounding stupid… you’ve done a brilliant job here i only discoverd this web site recently and was blown away by your commitment to publish news about the events in iraq as honestly as one can be…again well done and dont give up because the world needs more people like you to highlight the plight of the iraqi people. Inshallah your trip to najaf will be safe and successful and i think you are very brave in doing so. Thing is iraq has always been avery unpridictable…when i went to visit (as a child) in 1993 after the gulf war i was amazed by the hospitality of the people there considering what they going through as i expected something totally diferent, it was a very pleasent trip and i am certain you will experience the same regardless of the conflict. I would love to visit iraq again… however when i spoke to my uncle in baghdad earlier today he threatned to stick me in a cardboard box and ship me back to london (little does he know i will be there sooner than he thinks!!) I really do belive what your doing is very brave and please never give up no matter what happens…we are all proud and greatful of your work…and i hope to see you in iraq!!! Alla Ma’ak
X
Posted by: L.J | August 24, 2004 1:33 AM
Airedale:
The New Zealand team’s pre-game ritual (if I guess correctly, I haven’t seen it during the Olympics) is called the Haka, and it originates in Maori dance. The NZ rugby team (the “All Blacks”) performs it in the faces of the opposing before games. Check out:
http://www.allblacks.com/index.cfm?layout=haka
And Chris, by golly, be safe. And thanks. And keep up the good work.
Posted by: Ninly | August 24, 2004 5:23 AM
Good Lord man,do take care,you will be in our thoughts and hearts.
Nana
Posted by: Anonymous | August 24, 2004 5:53 AM
I was in Najaf yesterday and witnessed a strange exchange in the courtyard of the shrine.
A young fighter, who seemed somewhat fearful, was shouting insults toward American sniper positions. “I am still here, I am still standing!” he said. “Your bullets mean nothing to me, as I am in the service of Allah!”
A portly cleric nodded approvingly, but then approached the fighter and whispered “Your bravery is compelling! However,” he said, motioning toward the seat of the young lad’s robe, “It is obvious that you have a large jihad going on in the seat of your garment. Please clean this up lest the rumour spread among your fellow fighters that the US forces possess chemical weapons of ass destruction.”
With that, the young man scrambled back into the mosque frantically trying to find the nearest WC.
Posted by: Chocolate Sheik | August 24, 2004 7:26 PM
I was jogging through the streets of Najaf today (serpentine maneuvers only), when I came upon a wizened old mystic, selling tomatoes and dates against the exterior wall of the mosque compound. Much to my dismay, he seemed oblivious to the fact that there were bullets whizzing by, and that it was hard to breathe due to the smell of cordite in the air.
I asked him how he was feeling this fine day and he replied that his joints did tend to ache a bit in the 120 degree heat, but other than that, he was coping. Making conversation, I replied that summer was waning, and at least we could look forward to some relief in the near future.
“Infidel,” he replied with a knowing grin, “in Iraq, the weather yesterday and today may have been Sunni, however by tomorrow expect it to all go to Shiite.”
I then declined his offer to escort me to a local barber shop that he claimed could “take a little off the top,” and was equipped with “a first-rate video surveillence system…”
Posted by: Chocolate Sheik | August 24, 2004 7:48 PM