Surviving — and Leaving — Beirut

BEIRUT — I’m begin­ning to real­ize how iso­lated we we might be once the “West­ern nation­als leave Lebanon…”:http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1216800,00.html

From the West­ern­ers lin­ing the streets around Beirut’s port wait­ing to be evac­u­ated to Beirut’s Chris­t­ian res­i­dents absorb­ing their neighborhood’s first direct hit, the city’s besieged res­i­dents must have felt a most unwel­come sense of deja vu Wednes­day.
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An uniden­ti­fied Lebanese-Canadian man and his fam­ily protest the Cana­dian evac­u­a­tion plan by block­ing traf­fic in Beirut. (© 2006 Christo­pher Allbrit­ton)
Many in the crowd of angry Cana­di­ans and pan­icked Aus­tralians at the port had fled the 1975 – 1990 civil war and had returned with their chil­dren and grand­chil­dren to Lebanon for the first time. Now they were flee­ing war again. Lena Agha, 20, of Syd­ney, said her mother had left shortly after the start of the civil war and was tak­ing her daugh­ter and son to Lebanon. “Being from Aus­tralia, we never dreamed of expe­ri­enc­ing any­thing like this,” Agha said.“I left Lebanon in 1975 when I was nine years old,” said Alec Yevar­ian, 40, a Lebanese-Canadian from Mon­treal who came back to Beirut six years ago and started ECRM Solu­tions, spe­cial­iz­ing in Inter­net com­mu­ni­ca­tions sys­tems. “Now I’m leav­ing with my chil­dren. His­tory is repeat­ing itself.“
It must have felt that way to Beirut’s Chris­tians as well. A mis­sile attack on some trucks in Achrafiyeh, an upscale Chris­t­ian neigh­bor­hood in the cen­ter of the city, was the first time the Israelis had bombed there, and my dri­ver Ali and I raced there to see the after­math. We expected to see what was now a famil­iar scene: a dev­as­tated city block, with shat­tered glass and the crum­bled masonry of what used to be apart­ment homes. Instead, we found a cou­ple of well-digging trucks that had been hit by four mis­siles so pre­cisely that not even the win­dows in build­ings just two dozen yards away had been shat­tered. The trucks them­selves were prob­a­bly tar­geted because they looked almost like rocket launch­ers, but some­thing didn’t make sense: why would the Israelis think Hizbal­lah would try to park rocket launch­ers in broad day­light in the neigh­bor­hood that one would think would be the most hos­tile to them in Beirut?
Pol­i­tics, as usual, pro­vided the answer. On Tues­day, Michel Aoun, a Maronite Chris­t­ian and one of the most pop­u­lar politi­cians in Lebanon, made a call for national unity in the face of Israel’s assault. Long a foe of Syria dur­ing the lat­ter days of the 1975 – 90 civil war, he has since made a polit­i­cal alliance with Hizbal­lah in a bid for the country’s pres­i­dency.
Within the con­text of Aoun’s state­ment, the attack made more sense. Speak­ing with some of the neighborhood’s res­i­dents, who were all Chris­tians, I found a deep well of resent­ment toward Hizbal­lah and Has­san Nas­ral­lah, the group’s leader. A pre­cisely tar­geted attack in a hos­tile neigh­bor­hood was a way of “remind­ing” Hizballah’s ene­mies in Lebanon just who started this mess and under­cut the Shi’ite group’s alliance with Aoun, who is per­haps the only politi­cian in Lebanon with appeal beyond his sec­tar­ian group. (He’s widely admired by Sun­nis and Shi’ites as well as Chris­tians.)
This, how­ever, is a dan­ger­ous game. By stir­ring up anti-Hizballah feel­ings, Israel risks stok­ing anti-Muslim feel­ings as well, which are barely below the sur­face in some Chris­t­ian com­mu­ni­ties with strong ties to the mili­tias of the Lebanese Forces. Appeal­ing to those sen­ti­ments could send Lebanon back into full-scale civil war when the bomb­ing stops and the finger-pointing begins.
No, this wasn’t a real attack; there were no casu­al­ties and almost no real prop­erty dam­age (aside from the trucks). Instead, the Israelis were send­ing a lit­tle mes­sage to the Chris­tians in Beirut: Remem­ber your real enemy. Judg­ing from neigh­bor­hood sen­ti­ment, I think they got the mes­sage.
Whether the West­ern gov­ern­ments got the mes­sage from their angry cit­i­zens at the city’s port is another mat­ter. Alec Yevar­ian was one of the thou­sands of West­ern­ers who had few kind words to say about their gov­ern­ments’ evac­u­a­tion efforts. A mob of 2,000 to 3,000 shout­ing Lebanese-Canadians were all piled up near a small iron gate into the port that was strain­ing at its hinges as Lebanese sol­diers vainly tried to keep order. In the heat, they were stretched along two to three blocks where there was almost no shade, no water and no toi­let facil­i­ties (one small child uri­nated on her­self in front of me). A wall of sweaty human flesh pushed toward the gate while embassy offi­cials yelled out a few names at a time in alpha­bet­i­cal order.
The Cana­dian embassy has been awful,Yevarian said. For days no one picked up the phone there, he said, and no one had any com­mu­ni­ca­tion before yes­ter­day when they were told to arrive at 7:30 a.m. today. It was now 11 a.m., and very few peo­ple had been let through the gate to the wait­ing ship.
His was a com­mon com­plaint. “They were wait­ing for other embassies to come up with a solu­tion,” groused Roben Hatem, 31, a Lebanese-Australian from Syd­ney. He stood on the road lead­ing to the port with hun­dreds of other scared and fright­ened peo­ple, the side­walks crowded with lug­gage and elderly peo­ple and chil­dren tak­ing shel­ter in what lit­tle shade there was. Sev­eral booms filled the air. The Israelis were bomb­ing again. Sev­eral older women started to wail in fear and chil­dren began to cry. By the end of the day, accord­ing to The Aus­tralian, 360 Aus­tralians got out, but another 300 were unable to get a spot on a boat or chop­per.
At one point, a Cana­dian man grew so frus­trated he plopped his entire fam­ily in the street along with their lug­gage and blocked one lane of traf­fic. He shouted that no one from the embassy was help­ing them. Where was the water? Where were the embassy staff who were sup­posed to arrange things? Like the ques­tions of so many belea­guered res­i­dents of Beirut these days, there were no answers to be had.

Left Behind…

Here’s the lat­est dispatch”:http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1216115,00.html I did for TIME​.com:

Despite the rel­a­tive quiet in Beirut on Tues­day, the jit­tery sense of des­per­a­tion is get­ting worse. The West­ern­ers are being evac­u­ated, but that’s not nec­es­sar­ily good news for the Lebanese stay­ing put. Once the West­ern­ers are gone, peo­ple on the streets won­der what will hold the Israelis back. The lull in bomb­ing, in fact, is widely seen as a delib­er­ate break by the Israelis to allow the for­eign nation­als to get out.
And yet for all the press that the West­ern evac­u­a­tion is get­ting, there’s another group of refugees that isn’t being noticed. Lebanon has a large pop­u­la­tion of Iraqis, Sudanese and Soma­lis, as well as guest work­ers from the Philip­pines and Sri Lanka, who are too poor to pay their way out. And their gov­ern­ments are either inef­fec­tive (Iraq, Sudan) inat­ten­tive (the Philip­pines, Sri Lanka) or non-existent (Soma­lia) to offer any resources for these peo­ple.
Out­side the office of the United Nations High Com­mis­sioner for Refugees office in east Beirut, Abdou Shafai Ismael, 38, from Sudan, has a story that con­trasts sharply with that of the Amer­i­can tourists and stu­dents being floated to safety on Nor­we­gian cruise ships. While they may com­plain about hav­ing to pay back the U.S. gov­ern­ment for the costs of their evac­u­a­tions, from the dart­ing look in his eyes, I think Ismael would go to great lengths (per­haps ques­tion­able ones) in order to have a spot on a boat to Cyprus. Many of the 100 or so other men milling around with him prob­a­bly think the same. Theirs are tales of con­stant flight from one cri­sis to another. Ismael, for exam­ple, fled Dar­fur in Sudan to work in Iraq, until the Amer­i­cans invaded and he fled to Syria, where he was arrested for enter­ing the coun­try ille­gally. For two months, his Syr­ian jailors beat him every day, he said, before releas­ing him to go to Lebanon.“Where will I go now?” he asks. He can’t return to Sudan, where he fears Arab mili­tias will kill him and he says he won’t go to Syria because he fears being arrested and beaten again.
Alaa Mah­moud, 42, is Iraqi, from the noto­ri­ous Haifa Street in Bagh­dad; he’s one of about 20,000 Iraqis in Lebanon. He fled the nascent civil war in Bagh­dad in 2004, and now he is sick, he says, with an infec­tion of his hip. He has no med­i­cine and can’t work at his job as a jan­i­tor any­more. As his eyes tear up, he pleads with me to call his sis­ter in Bagh­dad to tell her he is alive. At this point, he breaks down and cries.
Inside his air-conditioned office, look­ing out on the street where the drama plays out, Arafat Jamal, the senior regional offi­cer for the UNHCR, tells me that in one week, 400,000 peo­ple in Lebanon — 10% of the country’s pop­u­la­tion — have been dis­placed. The peo­ple in the street below him will not be taken out of the coun­try, he said, but instead moved to “safe havens” in schools in the moun­tains and near Tripoli in the north. He looks tired, and he should be; he’s incred­i­bly short-staffed at the moment because the Lebanese employ­ees of the UNHCR have fled to the moun­tains them­selves.
But if Beirut’s poor and state­less have the U.N. to look after them, Beirut’s rich and almost-rich can look after them­selves. The signs of a mass exo­dus of Lebanon’s wealthy class are every­where – and telling. The city’s ATMs, which nor­mally dis­burse both Lebanese pounds and Amer­i­can dol­lars, are now only spit­ting out the brightly col­ored pounds, a sign that those who could have already fled — and took their hard cur­rency with them. I took out 1 mil­lion pounds today, about $670, but I worry about how long that will last. Even the West­ern Union is unable to give out dol­lars.
At least credit cards still work. An upscale super­mar­ket was packed as I stocked up for what might be a long siege of Lebanon. I found myself in a grim race with another man grab­bing bot­tles of orange juice, each of us try­ing to get as many as we could before the other could claim them. This will be a sav­age place in two weeks if this keeps up, I thought.
We’re already see­ing the begin­ning of short­ages. Bread is hard to find, for exam­ple. And the scratch cards to recharge our mobile phone accounts — already out­ra­geously expen­sive in peace­time — have jumped in price from about $40 to $50 for 80 min­utes of talk-time. Soon, even that con­nec­tion to the out­side world will van­ish.
As it is, Lebanon is already dis­ap­pear­ing before my eyes.

A more in-depth piece on the Third World refugees I did for the _San Fran­cisco Chronicle_ is “here”:http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2006/07/19/MNG3HK1JJP1.DTL&hw=allbritton&sn=001&sc=1000.

In Search of Beirut”

BEIRUT — I’m going to be doing a daily diary of sorts of TIME Mag­a­zine this week. Basi­cally B2I is get­ting trans­ferred there for a lit­tle while, but you’ll still be able to see the dis­patches here. Here’s the first one:

This war has turned Beirut inside out. The city’s usu­ally snarled traf­fic is almost gone and the blar­ing noise of car horns is absent. Con­versely, parks that are rarely used are now full of peo­ple — those who have fled the bomb­ings in the south, east, north, and, well, pretty much every­where in Lebanon.
The city’s fabled and glam­orous nightlife is almost gone, too, but the Lebanese dark sense of humor remains. In Torino’s, a bar in the funky Gemayze dis­trict, the owner, Michael, has writ­ten “Raad-1″ — a type of rocket Israel claims is being used against it — on the chalk­board usu­ally reserved for announc­ing the daily spe­cials. Below that: “Shlomo Go Home.“
This morn­ing I went to the south­ern sub­urbs of Bir al-Abed with Rania, my friend and occa­sional trans­la­tor. Bir al-Abed is a poor, Shi’ite area whose res­i­dents mainly sup­port Hizbal­lah. But there were no peo­ple there today; it was prac­ti­cally deserted, with shops shut­tered, no cars on the streets. Bir al-Abed is close to Hizballah’s head­quar­ters, which are in the next neigh­bor­hood, so — like most areas in the south­ern part of the city — it’s been pounded for almost a week. Bridges and over­passes have been reduced to rub­ble. Sev­eral inter­sec­tions have been turned into craters, often filled with water after the water mains under the street are shat­tered.
Walk­ing and dri­ving around the streets, I noticed a pecu­liar trait of Beirut: it’s not always pos­si­ble to tell the dif­fer­ence between the old war dam­age and the new. Beirut is ram­shackle and delight­fully dilap­i­dated in some parts — mostly the poor Shi’a parts, which are also the main tar­get areas. Some­times you real­ize that a bal­cony that appears freshly shorn off actu­ally col­lapsed in the 1980s.
While I was in Bir al-Abed, the Israelis dropped a cou­ple of small bombs about 500 yards away, on the next block. They sent gray plumes into the air and filled my nose with the smell of cordite and dust. The cab dri­ver who drove us there, Ahmad Ham­moud, 40, didn’t even flinch. He’s from the neigh­bor­hood and was more con­cerned with the fate of his fam­ily. “I got my fam­ily out on the first day of the strikes,” he said. But he stayed. “I thought it was wrong to leave because if we all left it would be like sur­ren­der­ing to Israel.“
He finally decided to leave Bir al-Abed because of the plead­ing of his chil­dren. “My wife told me that my eldest son is very wor­ried and my other son has stopped eat­ing because he’s scared. There’s no space at my in-laws, so I slept in the car.” His trou­bles haven’t dis­cour­aged him from sup­port­ing Hizbal­lah, how­ever, and he even wel­comed a ground inva­sion by Israel. “On the ground, they are weaker and we are stronger,” he said. “We can­not retal­i­ate against their mil­i­tary jets,” he added. “It’s not hon­or­able to destroy a peo­ple who don’t have equal mil­i­tary capa­bil­ity. Israel destroys, it doesn’t fight.“
Back in Hamra, the for­merly fash­ion­able part of town that was home to Beirut’s famed shop­ping dis­trict in the 1960s, things were quite dif­fer­ent. Traf­fic was sub­dued but it was still there. Shops were open and peo­ple were in the streets going about their busi­ness. The owner of a hard­ware store told me that peo­ple were stock­ing up on bat­ter­ies. He thought the war had noth­ing to do with Hizbal­lah or Israel’s secu­rity. Accord­ing to him, this was a war for the hearts and minds of tourists. Once Israel destroyed Lebanon’s entire infra­struc­ture, that would be the end of its tourist indus­try, he says. All the peo­ple com­ing to Lebanon would instead flock to Israel. I try to keep from show­ing too much skep­ti­cism.
Among the Lebanese and the for­eign­ers, I can sense a real sense of panic. The for­eign­ers and young peo­ple who have never expe­ri­enced war are freaked out. And the Lebanese who lived through the civil war and remem­ber it well are wor­ried, too. I spent two years work­ing for TIME mag­a­zine in Bagh­dad, where the cit­i­zenry scur­ries about in fear of hate­ful ran­dom vio­lence. Beirut is not Bagh­dad — yet — but it could get that way if this keeps up.
At night I watch the Lebanese news chan­nels and their footage of bomb­ings, blood­ied chil­dren and fran­tic civil­ians try­ing to help their coun­try­men into ambu­lances. I see the weep­ing women and scared kids. But I don’t see Beirut anymore.

More to come as the week grinds on… Also, check out this cover of TIME Mag­a­zine from Aug. 161982.

War Traps New Yorkers

BEIRUT — And here’s another story, this time for the _New York Post_ on trapped New York­ers in Beirut.

BEIRUT — Zeina Sayegh escaped the Lebanese civil war in 1975 when she was 2 years old. Now she’s caught in a new war on her first visit back to her par­ents’ home­land since 2000.
The 32-year-old Man­hat­tan res­i­dent, who is CEO of Fau­chon, a French gourmet-food com­pany, and her mother and aunt have been trapped in the moun­tains above Beirut since Wednes­day, when Israel began its fero­cious attacks.
“We arrived the day before all this hap­pened,” she said. “Since we’ve been here, I’ve been pre­oc­cu­pied with get­ting us out.”

There is a real sense of panic here among peo­ple. The for­eign­ers and young peo­ple who have never expe­ri­enced war are freaked out. And the Lebanese who lived through the civil war and remem­ber it well are freaked out. I seem to be the only one walk­ing around, not­ing the closed stores and sub­dued traf­fic and think­ing, “hm, com­pared to Bagh­dad, this isn’t so bad.“
I think I was in Iraq too long.
The Israelis have been hold­ing their fire (rel­a­tively speak­ing) today but there’s a rumor going round that once the for­eign nation­als are evac­u­ated, they will really open up. That may be true, but we’ll see. I still think we’re going to see a ground inva­sion, but I think it will be lim­ited to the south­ern part of the country.

Plight of the Displaced

BEIRUT — Here’s the story I did for the San Fran­cisco Chron­i­cle last night.

As Israeli jets screamed over­head and the resound­ing booms of bombs and shells echoed across the city Sat­ur­day, Ahmad Nanou, his wife and their 11 chil­dren clung together in an old school in a Beirut neigh­bor­hood as war raged around them.
Israeli jets and naval gun­ships unleashed a furi­ous pound­ing of the Lebanese cap­i­tal on Sat­ur­day after­noon, killing at least 33 peo­ple dur­ing the fourth day of the Mid­dle East’s lat­est war.
Nanou comes from the ancient south­ern Lebanese city of Tyre, where until Wednes­day he and his chil­dren sold lot­tery tick­ets in the street. That night, as Israel launched its attack on the Lebanese mil­i­tant group Hezbol­lah in retal­i­a­tion for the kid­nap­ping of two Israeli sol­diers, he and his fam­ily — four of the chil­dren still in dia­pers, he said — fled north by using back roads and cross­ing open fields. The Israelis had already bombed the bridges and main high­ways north to Beirut in their ini­tial assault.
Soon after the fam­ily fled the area, the Israeli air force bombed the back roads, too.
“The planes scared my chil­dren,” Nanou said as he waved his hands around the family’s new quar­ters in a Beirut school.
One of his chil­dren lay on a foam mat­tress with­out mov­ing, star­ing straight up. “My 3-year-old is in shock and can’t walk.”

I’ll be doing a lot of my posts like this, as much of my energy has to go into the free­lance work. I hope y’all don’t mind these short­cuts right now.